The Pharaohs’ would be disappointed
As we disembarked from the ferry, we were met by Mr Kamal who introduced himself in broken English. He soon had us moving through customs, introducing us to the Chief of Customs on the way. Clearly Mr Kamal is well connected with the customs and immigration. He even gives some of the key players a lift home from the port into Aswan.
Mr Kamal told me that Proper Job was now loaded on the cargo boat from Wadi Halfa and would be here late on Sunday. He took my mobile number and said he would call me when he hears the cargo boat has arrived. The basic plan was that he would collect us from the Hathor Hotel in Aswan and we would clear customs and complete the car licensing in one day. Mr Kamal gave us a free lift to the Hathor hotel which is located on the Nile. We checked in and got a room with air conditioning for EP110 (UK11) per night. We soon caught up with the Lizzybus crew who had stayed on in Aswan for a few extra days to get their car license and plates extended for two extra months. That evening we went to a local restaurant with Dave and Jane and caught up with events.
The following day I went down the main street and found an internet café. Reading my emails, I opened one from fellow overland travellers Venu and Anita, pointing to a Horizons Unlimited website article. The bad news was that the new Italian owned Visemar car-passenger ferry between Venice and Alexandria had just been cancelled due to the ongoing problems in Syria. In some ways it didn’t surprise me as we had heard that only a handful of passengers were arriving on the ferry each week. I spoke to the company and they confirmed that the service had indeed been suspended. Now I was back to my original plan of shipping via cargo from Alexandria in Egypt to Europe. I recalled that before I started the journey to Africa I had read a blog from another overlander that had done the same and they had given me the contact details of a shipping agency. I retrieved the file and called the contact person called Mrs Nashwa El Hossany of Marina Shipping Agency in Alexandria (export@smarina.com Tel: 002-03-4863647 Mobile: 0129136600). She speaks excellent English and advised that there is a RoRo ship weekly that leaves from Alexandria to Southampton. She requested my car details and promised she would send a price for shipping. In addition, she said that the company has contact with an English speaking agent that can assist with the clearing of the necessary paperwork required to export vehicles from Egypt.
On Saturday we arranged to visit the Abu Simbal temple complex which lies about three hours south of Aswan. We had actually passed these magnificent structures whilst travelling on the ferry from Wadi Halfa to Aswan. The best way to visit is by a tour bus and the cost is EP80 per person. The bus leaves at 4.30am in the morning and arrives at Abu Simbal at 7.30am. The drive has to be done in convoy because the region you pass through is Egyptian military controlled. The temple was built in memory of a great Pharaoh called Ramesis II. The entry ticket cost EP95 and once purchased we went into the information room and read the story on how these magnificent structures were relocated due to the rising waters caused by the damming up of the Nile River to form the huge hydroelectric dam that now exists. The engineering exercise involved in removing, and replacing, the huge statues and priceless tombs was a colossal feat. Basically the whole structure was cut out of its original placement and rebuilt stone by stone over a man made steel strengthened dome. The project was a great success and looks like it is original. We walked around the outside and admired the huge stone carvings that reach over 20 metres high. These 3500 year old statues are some of the most famous and photographed works from the Pharaoh era in the whole of Egypt. However, although impressive, they fade into obscurity when you enter the actual tomb and see the wonderful inscriptions and objects chiseled into the walls. You can even see the original colors that were painted by the ancient artists at the time of creation. One can only marvel at the quality and imagine how splendid the figures and scenes would have looked at the time they were painted. We spent a couple of hours staring at the wonderful works of art, before making our way back to the coach which was due to depart at 9.30am. The visit was well worth it, even though it meant getting up at 3am in the morning to do so.
We arrived back in Aswan at 2.30pm and headed to the local McDonalds to have a burger. I had not had one of these for at least five years and it tasted very good. That evening I called Kamal and he confirmed that he would meet us at 8.30am in the morning to take us to the port to clear Proper Job. That evening we headed to a local restaurant with the Lizzybus crew and had pizza. Dave had managed to learn the Arabic 1 to 10 and ensured, using the menu for Egyptians, that we paid local prices. Here, they use two menus; one for tourist and one for locals. The tourist menu is 40% more expensive than the local menu. Choosing the pizza though is a bit hit-and-miss, but if you persevere with the waiters they generally provide enough hints to get you there. Aswan is alive with shops and places to eat and the choice is very good. The people continuously badger you as you go by and it seemed we were in for another infuriating few weeks with the local people.
The following morning Kamal was there on schedule and after stopping to pick up the Chief of Customs we went to the port. At the port gate we needed a copy of our passports and paid EP10 each for an entry pass. Mr Kamal guides you through the whole process. He then took me, as the owner of the vehicle, to customs to start the paperwork. John went down to the dock to collect Proper Job. The customs officials completed the paperwork and I paid EP600 for a three month import license. I didn’t really need three months, but this extra charge gave me the ability to extend at no extra cost provided I did so in Aswan, Cairo or Alexandria. Dave from the Lizzybus had extended his the previous day and had paid another EP145 on top of the EP500 for the typical one month license. I was pleased to see that Proper Job was in exactly the same condition as when we had left the port in Wadi Halfa. It was great to see Proper Job again. Next Mr Kamal collected a traffic policeman to perform a rubbing of the chassis number so that we could get Egyptian plates. That done, Mr Kamal asked for a further EP225 (of which EP175 was for the car insurance for a month) and my carnet and drove from the port customs to the car licensing office which is located somewhere outside of the main gates. A couple of hours later he returned with the plates and the necessary licenses. After a small payment to the customs official the total for the clearance process was EP865. I have a number of reference prices from other travellers and, although the line items seem to be different, the total is about the same. I fixed the Egyptian plates to Proper Job and we were ready to go. Another group of overlanders arrived who were travelling southwards and Mr Kamal was assisting them as well. He is efficient and gets you through with minimal fuss and I can recommend him on the Egypt side. As he works well with the equally effective Mr Magdi on the Sudan side, using the pair of them is an obvious choice. To contact them: Wadi Halfa, Sudan - Mr. Magdi (nubatia51@yahoo.com, mobile 0121730885),– Aswan, Egypt, Mr. Kamal (mobile 201 05322669).
We said our thanks to Kamal and paid him EP150 (UK15) for his services. He is worth every penny. I then remembered that I still had a couple of small bottles of Glenfiddich whiskey in Proper Job and figured Kamal would be a good recipient. The trouble was that being in a Muslim country you may very well offend someone by offering them such a gift. I decided the best tact was to say it could be given to a friend of his. No such chance, Kamal soon made it very clear that he loved good whiskey and kissed my hand and comically hopped around with glee on the spot.
I drove Proper Job into Aswan and managed to find a parking space along the main road a hundred metres from Hathor Hotel. We headed up to the hotel swimming pool and relaxed for a few hours before heading out to a local bar for a couple of cold Sakara beers. I later sent an email to Nashwa at Marina Shipping with some additional information on Proper Jobs weight and dimensions that she had requested earlier that day. The following day the Lizzybus departed for Luxor whilst we decided to stay an extra day to look around Aswan. That evening we went back to the pizza restaurant and I grabbed the Egyptian menu and pointed to the medium size tuna pizza, telling the waiter the exact price in Arabic. He was quite surprised and asked if I spoke Arabic. I lied, and told him I could only read it. We paid Egyptian prices the whole of the evening.
The following morning we drove northwards along the east bank of the Nile towards Luxor. Along the way, you go through countless police blocks. In the past this was a road I had been warned about but it seems that now the police don’t even get up and you never get stopped. The drive along the Nile takes you through a green belt of agriculture which flanks the mighty river and runs inland for some way wherever they have created irrigation channels. It is in stark contrast to Sudan where the same river flows but there is almost no agricultural enterprise. About half way to Luxor we crossed the Nile to the west bank to visit the Temple of Horus, the most intact temple of its kind in Egypt. I followed the direction the GPS indicated and ended up in a large Muslim cemetery, to the bemusement of a number of people. We eventually found the right place and spent a couple of hours roaming around the magnificent monument. Again I found myself trying to put into context the old historic sites that we have in the UK with these in Egypt. They don’t compare as these are many times older than our oldest. It reminds you of how advanced the people of Egypt were at a time when most Europeans were emerging from caves.
We approached Luxor at around 4pm via the old road which is lined with colourful bushes and trees. We passed the Lizzybus parked up by the Gaddis Hotel and a little further on found ours, the Lotus Hotel, right on the river. Because of the recent revolution the prices in Egypt are extremely low and there are real bargains to be had. The 4 star Lotus Hotel cost us a total of UK30 per night including breakfast and dinner. I called Dave and Jane of the Lizzybus later that evening and we met up at a local bar that they had discovered which sells cheap beer. They are a great asset to have a couple of days in front of you as they have an uncanny knack of finding very good value places and deals. The river banks are lined with many large hotel ships that were all empty. You have to feel sorry for the people that rely on tourism here. There are so many that do. I doubt Egypt will ever be anything but a moderate Muslim country as, if their tourism industry dies, millions will be out of work.
Over the next couple of days we visited the Luxor Museum, the Mummification Museum, the Luxor Temple and the Karnac Temples. All these are well worth the visit. We also visited the Information Centre next to the railway station and enquired about the options to go across the Nile to the famous Valley of the Kings. We weighed up the options and decided driving ourselves was the least favoured. The best deal was to hire a micro bus complete with a guide for EP375. The itinerary included the Valley of the Kings, Temple of Rameses lll, Temple of the female god Hatshepsuit and the Temple of Memnon. We ran over this option with David and Jane later that evening and they quickly realized it was the best option. David’s parents had also just arrived for a short holiday so that made six of us, which reduced the cost per person to EP60(UK6).
The following morning the bus picked us up at 7.30am and took us over the Nile to the first stop, the Valley of the Kings. All the temples are on the east bank because this is the side the sun rises. The tombs are all on the west as this is the side the sun sets. The day was very hot and we were all glad that we had chosen the tour bus with its air conditioning. We paid for our entrance tickets and walked into the valley. The heat grew fiercer the further we entered the valley and it looks absolutely lifeless. The Pharaohs’ built a ‘special village’ for the workers who constructed the tombs. Workers were expected to live and die there. Some escaped and, apparently, became the tomb raiders. We were all totally blown away by the magnificence of the tombs themselves. Some extend for a hundred or more metres into the limestone rock. I marveled at the sheer effort that would have been expended to excavate these declines and underground chambers. At least the rock was limestone and not granite. The artists and scribes created such wonderful pictures of their Gods and kings and even the beautiful colors can still be seen in places. They are true works of art and tell the stories of the rites and passage of the Pharaohs from life and through the underworld, helped along the way by the Anubis. The history of the Pharoahs stretches back more than 3500 years and it is difficult to take it all in and link it all together. It would be well worth studying in details at some time in the future. I decided to pay the extra fee to visit the Tomb of Tutankhamen. He was a minor Pharaoh and, when you consider the mind boggling treasure he had with him when he was buried, you can only imagine the glittering horde that major Pharaohs’ like Rameses ll possessed before their tombs were raided by the thieves. It is such a great loss to the world that so many of these priceless treasures have disappeared and the gold objects simply melted down.
We all enjoyed the day and for me it was a great way to spend my 48th birthday. That evening I had asked David to track down a top class restaurant and invited them all to dinner. None of them knew it was my birthday, and that is the way I preferred it. We met at our usual bar and after a couple of bottles we headed to the restaurant by horse drawn carriage. David mentioned that the Sofra restaurant however did not sell beer. This was not as hoped, so we made a quick detour to a shop and bought sufficient cans of cold beer to take into the restaurant. Upon arrival I asked the owner if he minded and he said drinking was not allowed. I took him aside and offered to pay him some money but he didn’t budge. I then told him it was my birthday and we were celebrating. He eventually agreed but told us that if the police came in and caught us that we were to say that he knew nothing. We quickly agreed and cracked open the beers. The food was excellent and we had a great time reliving some of the things that have happened to us during our journeys around Africa. I made a small speech and wished the Lizzybus the best of luck on their trip around the world. I will definitely keep in touch with them and follow their journey through the continents. I really got to like them during our encounters in Africa. David’s ‘brummy’ wit, born in Redruth, Cornwall, is constant and endearing. Somehow, although I may be wrong, I felt that this would be the last dinner we would be sharing in Africa.
The following morning we checked out of the hotel and drove around to say farewell to David and Jane. I unloaded all the remaining cans of food from Proper Job, only keeping the honey, peanut cooking paste and pineapple jam (which is for my sister Jane) and gave it to them. I also gave them two bottles of +50 factor sun cream for David’s bald head. I joked with David that I couldn’t think of anything else that I had that would be of use to them. In a flash he reeled of a list of other things that he could use from Proper Job. We laughed and went on our way.
The drive to the Red Sea coast covered 250km. The route took us partly along the Nile and then through a dry barren landscape. We reached the coastal town of Safarga at around 3pm and soon found a mid sized hotel next to Nemo Hotel with its own private beach. The friendly owner called Hakim stated a price for a room. We chatted with him about the quietness of Luxor and the prices we had paid there for a 4 star hotel. He succumbed and gave us a much reduced price. Basically we got a room with a sea view plus breakfast and dinner for UK10 each. I don’t think there are many places in the world where such low pricing exists. We spent the afternoon on the beach and the following morning headed northwards towards the resort of Hurghada which was about 200km away. When we arrived we found a huge town dominated by hundreds of hotels geared up for the package holiday industry. We checked into the Princess Hotel and found a great parking place along the main road. The hotels, and Hurghada, are suffering heavily from the perceived problems in Egypt. The people are depressed and the whole place has a somber atmosphere due to the desertion by the tourist. There is nothing much going on and the hotel was not worth the money as the pool was dirty, the beach was awful and the continual hassle was infuriating. We checked out the following morning and found a better place called Hor Palace which was just down the road. The same atmosphere pervaded but at least the food and the pool were acceptable. Hurghada for me was the worst two days on the trip around Africa. It has nothing that remotely interests me and after a second night I was pleased to be leaving.
We headed once again along the coastal highway northwards and decided that Zafarana would be a good target for the day. The further we drove the more deserted the coast became and the ocean became bluer and bluer. When we arrived we found a small town with a motel called Sahara, right next to the Mobil petrol station. The owner was sitting outside and told us that many overlanders stay here on the journey south. He also mentioned a very interesting fact; the disputed area between Sudan and Egypt along the coast had now been resolved and in two weeks time the road was to be opened for all traffic. Previously you could only get from Sudan to Egypt via the infamous Wadi Halfa-Aswan ferry. If what we hear is true then future overlanders will be in luck. I would take the coastal road between Egypt and Sudan any day over the ferry. Also the cost would be much reduced. The Sahara motel was a nice place to stop for a night.
The following day we drove northwards through a huge wind farm that is reportedly the second largest in the world. We again drove along the coast and every now and then came across huge abandoned holiday accommodation projects. They looked as if they had been stopped a few years ago and are a real eyesore. However, I bet some hedge funds have snapped them up for 10 cents in the dollar, to resell for 100’s percent profits in a few years. After a couple of hours driving we reached Ain Soukna where we decided to stay for a night before heading into Cairo. We were told by the owner of Sahara motel that the Stella di Mar hotel was the one to stay at so we drove to the entrance gate to check in. It is a huge complex of privately owned villas, and popular with the Cairo crowd. The hotel was clean and smart and for the money, although more expensive, was a much better deal than Hurghada. We spent the afternoon on the beach and later I gave Proper Job’s prop shafts a final greasing. The restaurant food was excellent and I think this may be the most luxurious accommodation we have, and will have, on this trip. The following day we checked out at midday and started our journey in land towards Cairo, which lay 120km away. We had booked a hotel called Delta Pyramids which has a view over the nearby famous Giza pyramids. Unfortunately we had not read Trip Adviser before booking, as the reports we later read that evening were all very negative. It will be interesting to see what we make of it when we arrive.
When we got to Cairo we were soon in the thick of it with road works and detours all over. We managed to stay roughly on track towards the region of Giza and the pyramids. When we approached the pyramid zone we decided it was time to ask for some directions. Being completely lost in this chaotic city with its crazy drivers was not what we wanted. The first person we asked told us to go up the road and right where we should ask someone else. I have heard similar vague advice many times on my travels and they had mostly been fruitless. Hence, I decided that the best thing was to hire a taxi to lead us to the hotel. We were glad we did as the way to King Faisal Street was complex. When e arrived we managed to park Proper Job directly outside the hotel in front of the security guards. We were met by friendly hotel staff and we requested a room high up and at the back where it would be much quieter. One of the negative articles we had read referred to the terrible noise from the traffic into the early hours. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the room and felt that for the price of UK18 a night - booked online through Travel Republic (a brilliant website for finding good deals) - it was well worth it. The view from the roof terrace of the pyramids was spectacular and this alone was worth more than the price of the hotel.
That evening we jumped in a taxi and went down town to Zemalek Island, where we had been told there were a few decent cafes and bars. The driver first took us to a river boat restaurant complex called Nile City which was not very good. He then took us to another which was worse. We were now going around in circles and whatever we asked him was revolved around and back to square one. I am sure that this Egyptian technique of leading you around and around in mind game circles should be classified as a form of mental torture. The whole episode was frustrating and mind numbing. At one point I even got out of the car and walked away to regain my composure. Eventually, after another few goes we got him to take us to where we originally wanted to go and we found a great little Irish pub where we had a few beers. The taxi driver waited for us for two hours and then drove us back to the hotel, which took another one hour. The charge though was very reasonable at UK12 for four hours.
The following morning we went to reception at 8.30m to meet with the taxi driver that had originally led us to the hotel. He didn’t turn up so we ended up going to the pyramids with the brother of the driver we had had the previous frustrating evening. He was even worse and the Egyptian mind games were being played again. I purposely let John do the talking and enter discussions with him as I had had enough from the previous evening. After about 15 minutes of the circular mind torture treatment John angrily declared he had had enough and got out of the car and walked away. The driver looked astonished and I couldn’t help but laugh. Eventually John returned and the driver drove us to the pyramids. He told us he would wait for us and would not charge us for waiting. He also warned us of the many mafia types that hang around the pyramid zone. We got our tickets and queued to get into the complex. An Egyptian approached and started discussing how he would take us around. He even attempted to grab our tickets. At this point I firmly told him to back off, accusing him of being the mafia and that I would call the tourist police if he didn’t. He looked shocked and insulted and called others over to explain that he was an official guide working for the complex. I still didn’t believe their collective lies. We got through the gates and walked to where our taxi driver was. One of the proclaimed ‘official guides’ followed us and insisted on proving he was not a mafia type. He said he was there to show us around and there was no charge for his services. I told him if he really wanted to walk around with us then he was free to do so.
We went to the main pyramid which is around 100m high. They are amazing structures and are even more so when you realize they are around 4500 years old. We went inside one of the pyramids and climbed along narrow inclined tunnels to reach the chamber where the mummy of a pharaoh had once lain. The stone work was truly impressive and again I could imagine how Wilbur Smith had been inspired by such things when he wrote his books. When we came out we witnessed a scene where Egyptian ‘master con-men’ convinced a tourist that he should part with many notes from his wallet. It was quite funny to watch and I could not believe how naïve this person was. The two Egyptians vigorously shook hands with each other after they had completed their job.
We were soon approached by our so called ‘free guide’ who said we should get a camel or horse to go to the Sphinx which, he said, was too far away to walk to. We told him we wanted to walk and the mind games started again. We walked away and he said something along the lines of how rude it was to do so when he was speaking. We laughed and he started to get the picture that we were not easy pickings. Then he came out and asked for some money. I laughed again and told him he had not done anything to deserve payment and that we had not even wanted him to come along.
As we walked towards the Sphinx, a number of men on camels started hassling us to hire their camel for a ride. We told them no, regardless of the price, as we did not even like camels. They just kept on following us so we told them we would call the police if they did not leave us alone. By now I am sure the reader is getting the picture on what the people are like in these tourist areas of Egypt. Tiring and frustrating does not even come close to describing them. The Sphinx was smaller than I expected but again was well worth the visit. Even with the non stop tardy scams that the locals use to attempt to extract money from you, the Giza Pyramids are great to visit.
Later that afternoon we headed down to the Cairo Museum. We spent a couple of hours roaming around the myriad of rooms with their artefacts. However, by far the best display was the one holding the gold treasures that came from the Tomb of Tutankhamen. His face mask, containing 11kg of gold, is spectacular and beautiful. His inner sarcophagus is of solid gold and has amazing engravings. I guessed that this weighed much more than his mask. Indeed the world is lucky that the complete tomb and treasures of a pharaoh was not discovered by the grave robbers before being discovered and preserved by archaeologists. We headed back to the Deals Irish bar for a few cold beers followed by a tasty pizza in a nearby restaurant. That evening I got a call from my ‘fixer’ Mr Ahmed in Alexandria and discussed our schedule and meeting place. When the question of money came up I insisted we meet beforehand to discuss the right number. We agreed on this and the meeting as set for 8.30am at the Sofitel hotel in Alexandria on Monday morning. On the way back to the hotel we had more ‘fun and games’ with the taxi driver and after a brief argument about price we paid a much deflated asking price and called it a night.
The next day we easily found our way onto the Desert Highway that leads to the northern coast of Egypt and to Alexandria, our final destinations. The drive took about three hours and we eventually made it into the chaotic coastal city of Alexandria. The traffic along the coast road through the city was filled with cars and busses and you need nerves of steel to drive here. The locals see nothing wrong with being one inch away from the side of another car. There are lots of horns blowing and everyone is swerving in and out of their lanes just to gain a few metres advantage. Luckily Proper Job looks quite daunting to a Lada taxi driver so I was able to make my way to the Aifu Horizon hotel, opposite Montaza Palace, without too many near misses. Later I emailed the Lizzybus and gave them key GPS coordinates to ease the way in finding the hotel in Cairo and Alexandria. They had decided to come north for a few days to visit some local places and also to see us off.
The following morning we met Mr Ahmed at the Sofitel and I was surprised to find a 71 year old man who got around on a 25 year old Vespa scooter. He has been assisting with importing and exporting vehicles in Alexandria port for 51 years. We agreed on a price that I felt was fair and he felt was worth it if I could give him a few references. That done we started the process of getting Proper Job out of Egypt and back to the UK. First we went to the traffic attorney and cleared my Egyptian license. The process is complicated and I could not see that it would be possible to do these necessary clearances without a ‘fixer’. Next we went to Marina Shipping Agency where I met the very competent Mrs Nashwa. I paid for the passage on the MV Mediteraneo belonging to the Grimaldi Shipping Line. The boat was due to arrive in three days time, the 23rd June. The shipping cost came to around Euro500. That done we headed down to the huge port of Alexandria to obtain my port entry card. John was told he would not be allowed in as only the registered owner of the vehicle was allowed to enter. After a couple of hours waiting whilst the authority was given, we left the port and headed back to the hotel. These tasks had taken us around 5 hours to complete. I was to meet Mr Ahmed on Wednesday 22nd at 8.30am to begin the customs process.
That afternoon we went to the Montaza Gardens where we found a McDonalds restaurant to eat a late lunch. The Montaza Palace is a stunning looking Italian design building and we did a lap of the grounds before retiring back to the hotel. The sea front in Alexandria has loads of restaurants but they are all expensive and they do not sell beer. We had expects the northern part of Egypt to be much more westernized. We eventually found a fun bar in a weird sort of gated community, and this had the cheapest beer we had found in Alexandria. It was still much more expensive than in any other part of Egypt we had visited.
The next day we visited the famous Alexandria Library, but were disappointed with the collection of old books and manuscripts. Later that evening the Lizzybus crew arrived and we had a fun evening with them. Typical of the two of them they soon found a really good restaurant in the back streets. The food was excellent and cheap. John had a huge chicken meal for UK2. It was the first time that we had seen David fail to finish all the dishes off.
The following morning I drove alone down along the coastal road to meet with Mr Ahmed. I hoped that I would not have a prang on my last drive on this Africa trip with Proper Job. Luckily the traffic was light and I arrived early. Soon Mr Ahmed appeared on his scooter and I followed him to the port gates. The time was 8.30am. The next few hours were quite an experience. Unless you can speak and read Arabic, clearing a vehicles through customs, the traffic department and the delivery to the shipping line storage facilities is something that is impossible to do without a ‘fixer’. There is paperwork by the reams and it seems each has to be signed by three different people, often in three different offices. Mr Ahmed has been doing this for 51 years and they even have him running around and jumping through hoops. Actually he has an assistant to do all that as he would not be physically able to do so at his age. At each stage there are facilitating payments to be made and this is done through a hand shake where the money is passed over. Nothing would happen here without these payments and for a foreigner trying to do so, the expense would rack up. Five hours later we were finished and I drove Proper Job down to the Marina Shipping holdings and handed the keys to the company official, who would insure that it was loaded correctly the following day on the ship to the UK. Well I hope so anyway.
Mr Ahmed is worth the money and anywhere between Euro 200 and 250 to export your vehicle, everything included (except storage) is a good result. Believe me not much of that actually goes into his pocket. I jumped on his scooter and we found a small café where we enjoyed a cold fresh lemon drink. I paid him the balance of what I owed and bade him farewell. On reflection, for those who do the same route through Egypt and Sudan, I would recommend Mr Ahmed in Alexandria, Mr Kamal in Aswan and Mr Magdi in Wadi Halfa. With these three, you will find the whole experience much less stressful and you will be successful in getting your vehicle through.
I arrived back at the hotel and John had booked up our flights for the following day. We would depart Alexandria at 6.30am on the 23rd June 2011 and arrive in Cornwall around 5.40pm the same day. Our safari buddy Jane would be at Newquay airport to pick us up.
It will take me some time to reflect properly on my trek around Africa. I am tired now, not from the distance travelled but because of the Egyptian people. I am not saying that they are all annoying and irritating but enough of them are to give you the impression that they all are.
However, without a doubt this trip has been amazing and has been the challenge of a lifetime for me. It has taught me much and has given me a renewed belief and confidence in many things. I have really enjoyed the sub Saharan African peoples and their cultures. The wildlife has been amazing and the continent varied and vibrant. There have been many good times and some bad ones. There have been many challenges along the way. I have been able to meet again with some old friends and also meet new ones. Each of these encounters has made the trip more memorable.
I realize driving around the continent of Africa is something very special and rewarding. My journey, with my trusted carriage Proper Job, has taken me through 24 countries and over 58,000 kilometres. A tiny fraction of the worlds’ population both now and in the past, have travelled the circumference of Africa. For me this fact helps put the journey into perspective. People along the way have been bemused and asked me why I have done such a trip. My answer is Why Not ?
I will certainly feel sad leaving Africa tomorrow, but already am formulating plans to ship Proper Job back to Southern Africa so I, and friends, can go on other safaris in the future. I am looking forward to seeing my family and friends in Cornwall and Canada again.
Deep down, I feel that this journey has changed my outlook on life.
What next is the big question.
Saturday 25 June 2011
Friday 3 June 2011
SUDAN
Scorching Nubian Heat
We reached the Galabat border crossing just after midday and the temperature became noticeably hotter along the way. We had left the lovely cool climate of the Ethiopian highlands and it was now apparent that we would be in for a roasting in Sudan. From May to July are their hottest months and at this stage we were not aware of just how ferocious the heat would get.
The border itself was fairly quick on the Ethiopian side and we also exchanged our spare Birr for Sudanese Pounds, at a good rate of 6.25 Birr to 1 Sudan Pound. There are no ATM machines that accept international cards in the whole of Sudan because of the US led embargo, so we used the ATM machines in Ethiopia to get enough cash to see us through Sudan.
We were then told that at 1pm the border officials disappeared for lunch not to return until 3pm. We hastened our approach and hoped the Lizzybus would get here soon to avoid a two hour delay. The Sudanese side was slow to say the least, but all the paperwork was done thoroughly. There is no point trying to hurry them up, just stay cheerful and harp on about football. By the way, they all seem to be Barcelona fans. I joked with them about the upcoming final against Man Utd and eventually we were through. The other thing to remember is that you need to get registered in Sudan within three days of your arrival. If you don’t then you can be in a lot of trouble. The good thing is that you can get this done at the border, which saves a lot of hassle further on down the line. The cost though is US$50 per person, and this on top of the US$100 visa fee makes this one of the most expensive countries to visit in Africa. As we were leaving the Lizzybus pulled in and unfortunately got caught up in the lunch break.
We left the border at around 3.15pm and headed towards Gederef which lay about 200km away. The road was tarred all the way, although quite undulating in parts. I immediately noticed that there were nowhere near as many people on the roads and in the country as there are in Ethiopia. The roads were pleasantly quiet and we got to Gederef through a dry flat landscape by 5.30pm. We went to the Al Motawakhil Hotel which according to the Lonely Planet has a management style similar to Basil Fawlty. The price we were quoted was way above the price indicated in the lonely planet so we headed to the El Hawwad Hotel which turned out to be a good place to stay for the night. In Sudan you need to register with your passport in every hotel. We headed down to the local souk that evening and found a decent restaurant. We were welcomed enthusiastically at the entrance and ushered to a table. The genuine friendliness of the Sudanese people is very obvious and it was clear this would be a different experience than Ethiopia. We opted for the grilled chicken and were delighted by its quality, accompanied with lovely fresh bread and a lentil stew.
The following morning we left Gederef and headed north westward towards Khartoum. Along the way we stopped for fuel and again were surprised how cheap it was. The price per litre of diesel is about half of what it was in Ethiopia. We were stopped a couple of times by the police at road blocks, but after a quick chat, checking of our registration and handing over of a photocopy of our passport picture pages, we were let through. The day got hotter and hotter and by midday the heat, even with windows open was getting uncomfortable. It was like driving in the face of an industrial size air blower and the temperature was approaching 50 degrees. We thought abut camping but could not really imagine doing so in such heat. There was no escape from the heat as even at midnight it was still hot. We reached Khartoum and found a modern city brimming with business activity. Sudan is an oil rich country so even with the absence of the Europeans and North America there are clearly a lot of others more than happy to step into their place. We decided to give the much vaunted Blue Nile Sailing Club a miss as we had heard many bad reports about the place. Instead we decided to go to the Khartoum Youth Hostel which had been recommended to us by an English couple we had met in Gondor, Ethiopia. We were not disappointed and were impressed with the cleanliness and friendly manager called Abdullah. They also have free internet and off road parking. I sent a text to the Lizzybus and told them of this value alternative and an hour later, after visiting the Blue Nile Sailing Club and confirming the grim reports we had heard, they joined us at the hostel.
Over the next couple of days we relaxed in Khartoum and visited a number of great cafes and restaurants. I also managed to post my Ethiopia blog which was not an easy task without my trusted HP Mini Notebook. Eventually I managed to do so after a 4 hour marathon effort, so I hope the readers appreciate it.
The following day we decided to get our permit for visiting the coast of Sudan via Port Sudan. After a couple of attempts to find the right office we were directed to the General Transport Office in the Soba district. Here we met a Major Hamed who informed us that we did not need a permit to travel as we were in a non commercial vehicle. I told him friends of ours had indeed had to get this permit but he insisted we didn’t, and then gave me his cell number to call if we were stopped on the way. By this stage the Lizzybus had decided not to go to the coast but to cut short their visit to Sudan and head straight away to Wadi Halfa to catch an early ferry to Egypt. We stayed for another day in Khartoum and looked in detail at the route to the coast. After some debate we decided that to drive over 100km to the coast for two days was really not practical, especially in this fierce heat. We only had another eleven days before our exit from Sudan and we figured it would be better to break the journey up into a number of shorter driving days. Hence our plan would be to follow the Nile River northwards to Atbara, visiting the Meroe pyramids and other archaeological sites along the way. From there we would cross the Bayouda desert to Karima and then wind our way along the Nile via Dongola and into Wadi Halfa.
The following day we said farewell to the hostel staff and headed northwards towards Atbara. After a slight wrong turn we made it out of the city by 10am and headed towards the Meroe pyramids. Along the way we saw many dead cows, victims of the extreme harsh conditions. I am not sure how any animals survive here as there is no greenery for them to eat and no obvious water. Even the people I figured have a hard time of it. The villages are unimpressive and I can only imagine that the rest of the year outside this incredible furnace must be really nice. If not, why live in this area. At 1pm we found the hidden dusty track to the pyramids and made our way to the site. We met two German motor cyclists who warned us of even hotter weather to the north. They even offered to trade some of their 4 week Sudan visa to us! We paid our entrance fee and walked to the Meroe sites. They are really impressive and date back to 592 BC. They were built by the Merotic Pharaohs and are decorated with all the same figures as you would see in Egypt. We had the place to ourselves and wondered around these ancient structures. An English archaeologist - cum tomb raider - had in the 20th century discovered the wealth of a Merotic Queen. It seems to me, from a purely amateur perspective that there must be a lot more to uncover in these sand swept hills and orange coloured dunes.
We continued our journey to Atbara and upon arrival in this dusty bustling town, we made our way to the Nile Hotel. With the heat building by the day we made sure we had rooms with air conditioning and or fans. We managed to plug our fridge into the hotel power to ensure the auxiliary battery that it runs off didn’t drain flat. The heat here means that the battery, which normally lasts three days, only last for a day. The more we experience of this heat the more we realized that camping is not an option in Sudan at this time of the year. It is a pity that we were not here in the cooler months as the desert and Nile River are totally suitable for wild camping. Again we found restaurants with very good quality food. We drink many litres of liquid a day to keep from dehydrating. In some ways it is fortunate that the humidity is very low as at least this ferocious heat is somewhat manageable. Later that day we received a text from the Lizzybus who were camped up in the desert between here and Karima. They said it was so hot that they were having trouble coping with the conditions, and couldn’t wait to get out of Sudan and into Egypt. Jane was already suffering from heat exhaustion and could neither eat nor drink a bottle of cold beer.
The following morning we made our way to an internet café that we found after a number of attempts behind a large souk. We had decided to use Mr. Magdi to assist us with our departure from Sudan to Egypt. He would, for US$500, provide first class tickets for us on the passenger ferry and one way for Proper Job on the cargo ferry. The price also includes all other fees, including his time. There are probably many others who would provide a similar service but his name seems to come up more often than others. You want to make sure there is no problems with your vehicle arriving on the barge a day or so after you arrive on the passenger ferry in Aswan, Egypt. I called Mr. Magdi and mentioned our friends the Lizzybus who were also using him. I stressed that we wanted the same service and price as them, which he agreed to. I then emailed him our passport details and Proper Job’s details. I attached PDF copies of our passports and the carnet so there would be no confusion. When we left the internet shop we quickly found ourselves lost in Atbara. A local had taken us there through a number of winding streets and now, at 1pm, in the blazing heat we were totally disorientated. We eventually found a tuk-tuk driver who knew the Nile Hotel. When we arrived I had a shower and cold drink before venturing out again. We headed back to our favorite local restaurant for a late lunch and relaxed for a couple of hours.
The following morning we packed up and went to a local fuel station to refill for our final destination at Wadi Halfi. Next stop though was Karima, which lies 200km across the Bayouda desert and is located along the banks of the Nile River. The road was good but we saw very little traffic. The heat again was probably a major factor and apart from a few camels along the way we did not see any sign of life. As we approached Karima we came to a road block and were approached by three men, one on uniform and the others in civilian clothes. They requested the usual, passports and your destination. I had read ht many of the security personnel in Sudan are not in uniform so you have to go along with the process. One of the civilian clothed men went towards the other side of the car and I whispered to John to lock all doors. He was not quick enough and the man had he front door opened and was peering inside. He spotted my mascot parrot called Crystal (obtained at a friend of mine Ian Bruce’s Christmas party before I left on my African adventure) mascot on the front dash and removed it. John closed the door and started explaining how this parrot had been with us around Africa and was part of the journey. He grudgingly put it back and we drove into Karima.
Karima is a dusty town that has been made a UNESCO archaeological site because of the Temple of Mut and surrounding pyramids. We managed to find a tuk-tuk driver to show us a coupe of hotels and eventually settled on the Al Nasser, which had a ceiling fan. The cost was only 25 SDG per night and I also negotiated a power ‘plug in’ fee for Proper Job, which cost a further 25 SDG. The hotel is situated next to the main square that has an array of shops and basic restaurants. We found a decent restaurant and enjoyed a fine chicken meal that evening. That night was hot though and even with our room door fully opened the temperature did not abate enough to fall asleep until 4am. A ceiling fan only moves the hot air around, and the walls of the room are heated up so much during the day that they take a long time to loose their heat during the dark hours.
The following morning we headed back to the square and had breakfast. The wind had picked up during the night and the area was engulfed in a dust cloud. This cut out the worst of the heat from the sun but also ensured a good amount of dust was breathed in whilst outside. We found a good internet café and managed to send off some important emails. I found out from my friend in Cornwall Ian Heyworth had booked and confirmed our tickets for the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand later this year. With the success of a potash project in Brazil that we had invested in and that I had helped create over the past four years we had decided to splash out and go to New Zealand in lavish style via Hong Kong. It also gives me the chance to visit a country again that I really like and also to catch up with some Kiwi friends.
That afternoon we jumped in a tuk-tuk and went to visit the Temple of Mut which lies at the base of the Jebel Barkal Mountain. This was sacred ground for the Egyptians during the 18th dynasty and the structures are 2500 years old. We walked across sandy ground towards the remains of the temple and peered up at the towering Jebel Barkal. As we approached the first set of ruins it felt very much like a set on a Harrison Ford movie. It was hot and sweaty and the eerie silence made it even more authentic. When we reached the entrance to the temple I was surprised at how large the complex was. The entrance was flanked by four impressive granite statues of rams. Unfortunately they were quite badly damaged and even more shocking was that some of the damage was very recent. There was lots of pottery fragments sticking out of the sand as well as carved rocks with Egyptian writing inscribed. We went into another temple constructed in the mountain and were amazed by the wonderful inscriptions and paintings of familiar Pharaohs’ and their gods. A fire had caused much smoke damage but it was still all visible. We trudged around the mountain and visited the pyramid tombs of a king and his wife. The temperature was again soaring and we slowly made our way back across the sands to the entrance gate where our tuk-tuk awaited. We headed back to town and had cold showers to cool down to a more normal temperature. Next we headed back to the market and drank some cold drinks and a bite to eat.
That evening, it seemed that it was even hotter than the night before. We had a lot of trouble sleeping that night and only when it started cooling down at 5am did we manage to fall asleep for a couple of hours. The next day we planned to drive around the Nile River along the old road to Dongola. The scenic route along a dirt road would be more interesting than the drive across the Nubian Desert, but with the lack of sleep the previous two nights and reports that this road was quite rough it seemed a better choice was to take the tar road across the desert. We decided to leave around midday so as to arrive in Dongola at a reasonable time in the afternoon. I hoped we could find a hotel in Dongola with a precious air conditioner as that is the only way to ensure a decent rest. The drive across the Nubian Desert was a stark reminder of the harshness of desert life. As I drove I stared in wonderment at how anyone could travel through here with camels. The desert is bleak and god forsaken. I don’t think a human on foot could last more than a day if lost in this fearful landscape. After a few hours we started to see the first signs of life as palm trees began appearing on the horizon. We were once again nearing the Nile River. We made our way into green Dongola across a new bridge that spans the river. I followed the GPS to the recommended Lord Hotel. On arrival, I was not surprised to be told there were only fans in the rooms. I enquired if there was a hotel with air conditioning and was told there was one. I enlisted a local to show us to the Al Muallem hotel and we were delighted to find that it was true. The rooms only cost 69 SDG per night which was a bargain. The inner courtyard could be reached via a passage way but there was some construction materials stored there. I figured it wouldn’t take much moving to squeeze Proper Job into this shaded area so after explaining to the hotel manager what I wanted to do we went into action. Proper Job just made it through the gap and I found a socket that I could plug the fridge into. We heard later that day from the Lizzybus that they were on the ferry from Wadi but had not got First Class cabins like promised and were forced to sleep on the crowded deck. As they had changed their departure date by one week Magdi could not get them a cabin booking. However, David confirmed that we had now got their original cabin for the following weeks sailing. Also the cargo ferry had not arrived so they had to leave the Lizzybus on the dock to be loaded up after their departure. Oh well, we will see what the Wadi Halfa experience has in store for us next week.
That evening, with the air conditioning, we had no problems sleeping. We enjoyed a couple of cold cans of beer in the room and disposed the empties carefully. Don’t wan to get caught and given 40 lashes. In the morning the receptionist, in excellent English told us we had to move the car as it was in a theater show area. I said that the manager had said we could park it there, but agreed to move it to a different part of the courtyard. Unfortunately, the socket in that area was dead so I unloaded the contents from the fridge and put it in the room fridge. The receptionist, who had one glass eye, had lived in many countries. He explained that he had lost his eye as punishment from God for all the bad things – mainly booze and woman - he had dome whilst living in Canada, Europe, Libya and Egypt. Furthermore, he said he deserved his punishment! We managed to get him to write down in Arabic the names of places we anted to visit that day, including somewhere that we could watch the Man Utd versus Barcelona in the Championship League final at Wembly the following evening. Barcelona are the clear favorites but you never know, remember the Bayern Munich final a decade ago when two goals by Teddy Sheridan and the ‘baby faced assassin’ Ole Gunnar Scholskear in the last 5 minutes saw Man Utd to a famous 2-1 victory.
The following morning the power went of at 7am. When I enquired at the reception what had happened I was told that there were repair works underway and power is scheduled to be turned on at 7pm that evening. This would prove to be a long hot ay as the air con provides a needed respite from the heat. A few hours wandering around the town in the hot sun is doable as long as you have a cool climate to recover in. We went to the internet café and caught up with some emails and world news. Dongola has a nice feel to it and the people were very welcoming. Buying a cool drink at a local shop often ended with the gift of a free banana. Whereas in most African countries you get shortchanged one way or the other, here in Sudan it is different. Later that afternoon we drank mint tea and I enjoyed a plate of local honey cake sweets. Everyone was talking about the upcoming football match and once enough people had requested the hotel manager to provide the channel with the match, he agreed to do it. 7pm came and went and we hoped that the power would return soon. We sat at a tea stall and waited and drank more tea. In Africa you do have to accept that time lines will probably not be adhered to so patience is required in large dollops. At 8.30pm the lights came on and there was a loud cheer from the streets. We headed back to the hotel room and bathed in the cool air. At 9.45pm the football match started and we joined a number of Sudanese fans around the TV. After a bright start by Man Utd, Barcelona put on a stunning display of passing football. Man Utd fans everywhere must have known what was coming and it soon did. Dominating possession by a wide margin Barcelona won the game 3-1 and no one can deny that they deserved the win. Rarely have Man Utd been so comprehensively outplayed.
The following morning we decided to stay for another day as we had got to like the town and its friendliness. We were in a routine and could mingle in with the locals and observe life as they lived it. When you are constantly on the move you can not have this level of observance, so it was different for us to wile away the hours this way. When we returned to the hotel the one-eyed manager said that the police intelligence division, or whatever they call themselves, had rang him to enquire why we had not left town yet. When you arrive in Sudanese towns you have to report to the police and be registered. Hotels will only let you stay once you have done this. We had said we would stay for three nights and, as we had not left, the police told the manager that we should check out. He told them we were guests and he could not do so. This seemed to do the trick but he said we should either go back and re-register (which is a laborious process) or leave in the morning. Fair enough, he had done us a favor by standing the police down. This registration system is a strange one and must be a hangover from the past.
The following morning we went to our local café and had a final cup of mint tea before packing our things. When we went to pay the manager changed us 60SDG per night instead of 69SDG, as long as we didn’t want a receipt. I made up some cheese and onion sandwiches for the road and filled our bottles with cold drinking water from the hotel. Wadi Halfa lay 400km away along the Nile and across the Nubian Desert. We did not expect comfortable accommodation in Wadi Halfa as the Lonely Planet had a poor write up. The road was fairly new and replaced the sand road where a few people died each year from getting lost in the desert. As we drove through the barren burnt landscape you could see how it would have been so easy to loose the road. After a couple of hours the tar road swung back towards the Nile River and we caught a few glimpses of the shimmering water between the date palm groves. Again I regretted not travelling through Sudan in the cooler months as the camping opportunities along the river and in the desert were endless. As lunch approached I looked for a route to take us to the river bank. I eventually found a small sand track and followed it through some low dunes. Luckily it was a good choice and we parked up on the river bank and had lunch and a well needed rest. The river is magnificent and you can easily picture the Pharaohs travelling this way from Upper to Lower Egypt. In fact, if you took away the power lines and the tar road then I doubt this place has changed much since those ancient times.
We pushed on towards Wadi Halfa and again the road headed back into the desert. The scenery suddenly changed into one that evoked an area of major ancient volcanism. We drove through landscapes that reminded me a lot of northern Namibia. Sharded black volcanic rocks stuck vertically out of the sand and I remember seeing this very same geological feature near to Sossusflei, Namibia. I was told at the time that this feature signaled that you were very near to the hot core. The difference here was that the sharded structures were massive and numerous. I must do a search on Google to find out more about the ‘Nubian’ volcanic. Funny enough it was in a lodge at Sossusflei that I actually met and dined with Sergei Brin (co-founder of Google) and his lovely wife Anne. I thought that Sudan was mostly just one big flat desert and had little interesting geology. I wouldn’t be surprised if there are some significant metallic deposits to be discovered here somewhere. Exploration work would be seasonal as no one in their right minds would explore this furnace at this time of the year.
After six hours of driving we arrived at Wadi Halfa. I had GPS coordinates for our fixer Mr. Magdi so we proceeded to that point. When we arrived I went into the Kilopatra Hotel to enquire and was told that we were booked here at 30SDG per night. We then noticed the hotel had a couple of rooms with air con so asked if they were available. They were, but were more than double the price. We took half a second to take the air con room and at 80 SDG (UK£16) per night was well worth it to ensure we could sleep. A while later Mr. Magdi turned up and we had a brief chat with him. He told us that the Lizzybus had left on Saturday as there had been some problems with the car ferry. He said that the car ferry would be here late Wednesday of Thursday and we should not have any delays. Don’t hold your breath for that one. Mr. Magdi clearly knows his stuff and we were soon delving into the paperwork required to depart. Once completed, he took our passports and Carnet and said he would start to process them the following day meet us later that day around midday. His cost is US$500 for two persons First Class cabin, car passage, customs and ‘other’ associated charges. Basically he makes around US$50 for ‘fixing’, which at this stage of the journey is fine. He also mentioned there were three overland cars coming in on the ferry. This was good news as it indicated the Alexandria to Venice ferry was still in operation. There are a few ‘fixers’ in Wadi and in Aswan and details for the ones I have heard positive things about are; Wadi Halfa - Mr. Magdi (nubatia51@yahoo.com, mobile 0121730885), Mr. Mazar Mahir (mahirmashansharti@gmail.com, mobile +249 122380740) – Aswan, Mr. Mohammed Abouda (Aboudanilfeluka@hotmail.com, mobile +20 125111968), Mr. Kamal who teams up with Mr. Magdi (mobile 201 05322669)
We enjoyed a couple of cans of cold beer in the room and cooled off. Later we headed to the restaurant area which is next to a prominent hill. The desert sunset was a good one and the evening was relatively cool because of a pleasant breeze.
The following morning we sauntered down to the square and drank some tea. At 10am Mr. Magdi turned up on his way to the port and we caught up briefly with the days proceedings. Basically we would not see much of him that day. The hours drifted by and at least there was a fair breeze blowing through so it was nowhere near as hot as the towns in the Nubian or Bayouda deserts. Later that afternoon I called Mr. Magdi and he came around to the hotel to go through proceedings the following day and also to assist us with contacting Mr. Kamal in Aswan. I discussed prices with Mr. Magdi and showed him amounts that other overlanders had paid in Aswan. He called Mr. Kamal and said that he agreed to do the same for us. Basically the cost of clearing customs in Aswan, obtaining a number plate and buying insurance is around E£880 (US$145). The paperwork is apparently tedious on the Egypt side so I was happy to agree to Mr. Kamal’s service. Mr. Magdi also said that the big cargo ferry still had not left Aswan and he was trying to get the smaller cargo ferry here for Wednesday or Thursday. We would have to leave Proper Job with Mr. Magdi to drive onto the cargo ferry whenever it arrives. This is no big deal as he has done this numerous times for his customers.
Later that afternoon I decided to get my spare keys out of the safe to give to Mr. Magdi the following day. I had had a spare main key cut in Fez, Morocco and I decided this would be the one I would leave with Mr. Magdi. I casually tried the key in the door locks and it worked fine. Something then urged me to try the ignition with it. I did, and it did not work. I could only imagine the inconvenience and utter despair that I would feel if I had arrived in Aswan after an 18 hour ferry journey only to be told that Mr. Magdi could not put Proper Job on the ferry as he could open the doors but couldn’t start the engine. It would have meant a mind numbing trip back to Wadi Halfa with all the associated visa problems etc etc. Whatever or whoever urged me to try the key in the ignition, thanks. I packed up Proper Job and put any valuables that we would not carry on the ferry into the safe. That evening we had a few cold Tusker beers in the room. All our Kilimanjaro beers from Tanzania had now gone so we were into our last two crates of Kenyan beer. At this rate, with the soon-to-be abundance of Sukara beer in Egypt, we may well have a crate of Tusker left to give to our travel buddy Jane when we get back to Cornwall.
The following day Mr. Magdi turned up at 11am and returned our passports sating he would come to the hotel at 1pm to take us to the port where the rest of the paperwork would quickly be completed. We packed a six pack into our carry on luggage to drink whilst sailing across Lake Nasser. Mr. Magdi turned up on time and we drove to the customs. He explained that he feared that with the regular car ferry being so delayed that we should try and get Proper Job a berth on one of the other cargo boats. The problem was that the captains all had letters from the Nile River Shipping Company stating that only the official car ferry was to take vehicles. If we could convince the captain of a boat (that was the old car ferry) then it would save us a few days in Aswan. However, a small fee needed to be paid to the captain. We drove down to the cargo dock and met the captain. After a brief discussion he said he would do it. Our first offer price, on Mr. Magdi’s guess, was not accepted. We then upped the price to UK20 and the deal was done. We headed back to immigration and were whisked through all formalities very quickly. When we got to the customs we were not carrying any bags as they were already through the gate in Proper Job. Our beers were safe. By 2.30pm we were on the passenger ferry. The boat is dirty, to say the least, and they don’t seem to clean it between changeovers. We got to our cabin, which was not much better. At least we had our own space and an air con that we could cool our beers on. We said farewell to Mr. Magdi, who had done a good job for us and is clearly well connected in Wadi Halfa.
The boat departed at 5pm and we cruised up the Nile for a while before entering Lake Nasser. It was a strange feeling leaving Proper Job alone and in the hands of s stranger. This was the first time during the entire trip around Africa that we had been parted. It would be good to see Proper Job safely on the Egyptian side in a four days time. Our passports were taken from us as soon as we entered the boat and then are returned later that evening to be cleared by Egyptian immigration during the boat trip. The hours went by and we drank our beers looking across Lake Nasser. At 9pm we sailed by the Abu Simbel tomb complex, which looked spectacular lit up. Although the first class cabin was an eyesore, we got a good nights’ sleep. The following morning we skipped breakfast as the restaurant looked like a chimp’s tea party. At 11pm the ferry docked in Aswan.
We reached the Galabat border crossing just after midday and the temperature became noticeably hotter along the way. We had left the lovely cool climate of the Ethiopian highlands and it was now apparent that we would be in for a roasting in Sudan. From May to July are their hottest months and at this stage we were not aware of just how ferocious the heat would get.
The border itself was fairly quick on the Ethiopian side and we also exchanged our spare Birr for Sudanese Pounds, at a good rate of 6.25 Birr to 1 Sudan Pound. There are no ATM machines that accept international cards in the whole of Sudan because of the US led embargo, so we used the ATM machines in Ethiopia to get enough cash to see us through Sudan.
We were then told that at 1pm the border officials disappeared for lunch not to return until 3pm. We hastened our approach and hoped the Lizzybus would get here soon to avoid a two hour delay. The Sudanese side was slow to say the least, but all the paperwork was done thoroughly. There is no point trying to hurry them up, just stay cheerful and harp on about football. By the way, they all seem to be Barcelona fans. I joked with them about the upcoming final against Man Utd and eventually we were through. The other thing to remember is that you need to get registered in Sudan within three days of your arrival. If you don’t then you can be in a lot of trouble. The good thing is that you can get this done at the border, which saves a lot of hassle further on down the line. The cost though is US$50 per person, and this on top of the US$100 visa fee makes this one of the most expensive countries to visit in Africa. As we were leaving the Lizzybus pulled in and unfortunately got caught up in the lunch break.
We left the border at around 3.15pm and headed towards Gederef which lay about 200km away. The road was tarred all the way, although quite undulating in parts. I immediately noticed that there were nowhere near as many people on the roads and in the country as there are in Ethiopia. The roads were pleasantly quiet and we got to Gederef through a dry flat landscape by 5.30pm. We went to the Al Motawakhil Hotel which according to the Lonely Planet has a management style similar to Basil Fawlty. The price we were quoted was way above the price indicated in the lonely planet so we headed to the El Hawwad Hotel which turned out to be a good place to stay for the night. In Sudan you need to register with your passport in every hotel. We headed down to the local souk that evening and found a decent restaurant. We were welcomed enthusiastically at the entrance and ushered to a table. The genuine friendliness of the Sudanese people is very obvious and it was clear this would be a different experience than Ethiopia. We opted for the grilled chicken and were delighted by its quality, accompanied with lovely fresh bread and a lentil stew.
The following morning we left Gederef and headed north westward towards Khartoum. Along the way we stopped for fuel and again were surprised how cheap it was. The price per litre of diesel is about half of what it was in Ethiopia. We were stopped a couple of times by the police at road blocks, but after a quick chat, checking of our registration and handing over of a photocopy of our passport picture pages, we were let through. The day got hotter and hotter and by midday the heat, even with windows open was getting uncomfortable. It was like driving in the face of an industrial size air blower and the temperature was approaching 50 degrees. We thought abut camping but could not really imagine doing so in such heat. There was no escape from the heat as even at midnight it was still hot. We reached Khartoum and found a modern city brimming with business activity. Sudan is an oil rich country so even with the absence of the Europeans and North America there are clearly a lot of others more than happy to step into their place. We decided to give the much vaunted Blue Nile Sailing Club a miss as we had heard many bad reports about the place. Instead we decided to go to the Khartoum Youth Hostel which had been recommended to us by an English couple we had met in Gondor, Ethiopia. We were not disappointed and were impressed with the cleanliness and friendly manager called Abdullah. They also have free internet and off road parking. I sent a text to the Lizzybus and told them of this value alternative and an hour later, after visiting the Blue Nile Sailing Club and confirming the grim reports we had heard, they joined us at the hostel.
Over the next couple of days we relaxed in Khartoum and visited a number of great cafes and restaurants. I also managed to post my Ethiopia blog which was not an easy task without my trusted HP Mini Notebook. Eventually I managed to do so after a 4 hour marathon effort, so I hope the readers appreciate it.
The following day we decided to get our permit for visiting the coast of Sudan via Port Sudan. After a couple of attempts to find the right office we were directed to the General Transport Office in the Soba district. Here we met a Major Hamed who informed us that we did not need a permit to travel as we were in a non commercial vehicle. I told him friends of ours had indeed had to get this permit but he insisted we didn’t, and then gave me his cell number to call if we were stopped on the way. By this stage the Lizzybus had decided not to go to the coast but to cut short their visit to Sudan and head straight away to Wadi Halfa to catch an early ferry to Egypt. We stayed for another day in Khartoum and looked in detail at the route to the coast. After some debate we decided that to drive over 100km to the coast for two days was really not practical, especially in this fierce heat. We only had another eleven days before our exit from Sudan and we figured it would be better to break the journey up into a number of shorter driving days. Hence our plan would be to follow the Nile River northwards to Atbara, visiting the Meroe pyramids and other archaeological sites along the way. From there we would cross the Bayouda desert to Karima and then wind our way along the Nile via Dongola and into Wadi Halfa.
The following day we said farewell to the hostel staff and headed northwards towards Atbara. After a slight wrong turn we made it out of the city by 10am and headed towards the Meroe pyramids. Along the way we saw many dead cows, victims of the extreme harsh conditions. I am not sure how any animals survive here as there is no greenery for them to eat and no obvious water. Even the people I figured have a hard time of it. The villages are unimpressive and I can only imagine that the rest of the year outside this incredible furnace must be really nice. If not, why live in this area. At 1pm we found the hidden dusty track to the pyramids and made our way to the site. We met two German motor cyclists who warned us of even hotter weather to the north. They even offered to trade some of their 4 week Sudan visa to us! We paid our entrance fee and walked to the Meroe sites. They are really impressive and date back to 592 BC. They were built by the Merotic Pharaohs and are decorated with all the same figures as you would see in Egypt. We had the place to ourselves and wondered around these ancient structures. An English archaeologist - cum tomb raider - had in the 20th century discovered the wealth of a Merotic Queen. It seems to me, from a purely amateur perspective that there must be a lot more to uncover in these sand swept hills and orange coloured dunes.
We continued our journey to Atbara and upon arrival in this dusty bustling town, we made our way to the Nile Hotel. With the heat building by the day we made sure we had rooms with air conditioning and or fans. We managed to plug our fridge into the hotel power to ensure the auxiliary battery that it runs off didn’t drain flat. The heat here means that the battery, which normally lasts three days, only last for a day. The more we experience of this heat the more we realized that camping is not an option in Sudan at this time of the year. It is a pity that we were not here in the cooler months as the desert and Nile River are totally suitable for wild camping. Again we found restaurants with very good quality food. We drink many litres of liquid a day to keep from dehydrating. In some ways it is fortunate that the humidity is very low as at least this ferocious heat is somewhat manageable. Later that day we received a text from the Lizzybus who were camped up in the desert between here and Karima. They said it was so hot that they were having trouble coping with the conditions, and couldn’t wait to get out of Sudan and into Egypt. Jane was already suffering from heat exhaustion and could neither eat nor drink a bottle of cold beer.
The following morning we made our way to an internet café that we found after a number of attempts behind a large souk. We had decided to use Mr. Magdi to assist us with our departure from Sudan to Egypt. He would, for US$500, provide first class tickets for us on the passenger ferry and one way for Proper Job on the cargo ferry. The price also includes all other fees, including his time. There are probably many others who would provide a similar service but his name seems to come up more often than others. You want to make sure there is no problems with your vehicle arriving on the barge a day or so after you arrive on the passenger ferry in Aswan, Egypt. I called Mr. Magdi and mentioned our friends the Lizzybus who were also using him. I stressed that we wanted the same service and price as them, which he agreed to. I then emailed him our passport details and Proper Job’s details. I attached PDF copies of our passports and the carnet so there would be no confusion. When we left the internet shop we quickly found ourselves lost in Atbara. A local had taken us there through a number of winding streets and now, at 1pm, in the blazing heat we were totally disorientated. We eventually found a tuk-tuk driver who knew the Nile Hotel. When we arrived I had a shower and cold drink before venturing out again. We headed back to our favorite local restaurant for a late lunch and relaxed for a couple of hours.
The following morning we packed up and went to a local fuel station to refill for our final destination at Wadi Halfi. Next stop though was Karima, which lies 200km across the Bayouda desert and is located along the banks of the Nile River. The road was good but we saw very little traffic. The heat again was probably a major factor and apart from a few camels along the way we did not see any sign of life. As we approached Karima we came to a road block and were approached by three men, one on uniform and the others in civilian clothes. They requested the usual, passports and your destination. I had read ht many of the security personnel in Sudan are not in uniform so you have to go along with the process. One of the civilian clothed men went towards the other side of the car and I whispered to John to lock all doors. He was not quick enough and the man had he front door opened and was peering inside. He spotted my mascot parrot called Crystal (obtained at a friend of mine Ian Bruce’s Christmas party before I left on my African adventure) mascot on the front dash and removed it. John closed the door and started explaining how this parrot had been with us around Africa and was part of the journey. He grudgingly put it back and we drove into Karima.
Karima is a dusty town that has been made a UNESCO archaeological site because of the Temple of Mut and surrounding pyramids. We managed to find a tuk-tuk driver to show us a coupe of hotels and eventually settled on the Al Nasser, which had a ceiling fan. The cost was only 25 SDG per night and I also negotiated a power ‘plug in’ fee for Proper Job, which cost a further 25 SDG. The hotel is situated next to the main square that has an array of shops and basic restaurants. We found a decent restaurant and enjoyed a fine chicken meal that evening. That night was hot though and even with our room door fully opened the temperature did not abate enough to fall asleep until 4am. A ceiling fan only moves the hot air around, and the walls of the room are heated up so much during the day that they take a long time to loose their heat during the dark hours.
The following morning we headed back to the square and had breakfast. The wind had picked up during the night and the area was engulfed in a dust cloud. This cut out the worst of the heat from the sun but also ensured a good amount of dust was breathed in whilst outside. We found a good internet café and managed to send off some important emails. I found out from my friend in Cornwall Ian Heyworth had booked and confirmed our tickets for the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand later this year. With the success of a potash project in Brazil that we had invested in and that I had helped create over the past four years we had decided to splash out and go to New Zealand in lavish style via Hong Kong. It also gives me the chance to visit a country again that I really like and also to catch up with some Kiwi friends.
That afternoon we jumped in a tuk-tuk and went to visit the Temple of Mut which lies at the base of the Jebel Barkal Mountain. This was sacred ground for the Egyptians during the 18th dynasty and the structures are 2500 years old. We walked across sandy ground towards the remains of the temple and peered up at the towering Jebel Barkal. As we approached the first set of ruins it felt very much like a set on a Harrison Ford movie. It was hot and sweaty and the eerie silence made it even more authentic. When we reached the entrance to the temple I was surprised at how large the complex was. The entrance was flanked by four impressive granite statues of rams. Unfortunately they were quite badly damaged and even more shocking was that some of the damage was very recent. There was lots of pottery fragments sticking out of the sand as well as carved rocks with Egyptian writing inscribed. We went into another temple constructed in the mountain and were amazed by the wonderful inscriptions and paintings of familiar Pharaohs’ and their gods. A fire had caused much smoke damage but it was still all visible. We trudged around the mountain and visited the pyramid tombs of a king and his wife. The temperature was again soaring and we slowly made our way back across the sands to the entrance gate where our tuk-tuk awaited. We headed back to town and had cold showers to cool down to a more normal temperature. Next we headed back to the market and drank some cold drinks and a bite to eat.
That evening, it seemed that it was even hotter than the night before. We had a lot of trouble sleeping that night and only when it started cooling down at 5am did we manage to fall asleep for a couple of hours. The next day we planned to drive around the Nile River along the old road to Dongola. The scenic route along a dirt road would be more interesting than the drive across the Nubian Desert, but with the lack of sleep the previous two nights and reports that this road was quite rough it seemed a better choice was to take the tar road across the desert. We decided to leave around midday so as to arrive in Dongola at a reasonable time in the afternoon. I hoped we could find a hotel in Dongola with a precious air conditioner as that is the only way to ensure a decent rest. The drive across the Nubian Desert was a stark reminder of the harshness of desert life. As I drove I stared in wonderment at how anyone could travel through here with camels. The desert is bleak and god forsaken. I don’t think a human on foot could last more than a day if lost in this fearful landscape. After a few hours we started to see the first signs of life as palm trees began appearing on the horizon. We were once again nearing the Nile River. We made our way into green Dongola across a new bridge that spans the river. I followed the GPS to the recommended Lord Hotel. On arrival, I was not surprised to be told there were only fans in the rooms. I enquired if there was a hotel with air conditioning and was told there was one. I enlisted a local to show us to the Al Muallem hotel and we were delighted to find that it was true. The rooms only cost 69 SDG per night which was a bargain. The inner courtyard could be reached via a passage way but there was some construction materials stored there. I figured it wouldn’t take much moving to squeeze Proper Job into this shaded area so after explaining to the hotel manager what I wanted to do we went into action. Proper Job just made it through the gap and I found a socket that I could plug the fridge into. We heard later that day from the Lizzybus that they were on the ferry from Wadi but had not got First Class cabins like promised and were forced to sleep on the crowded deck. As they had changed their departure date by one week Magdi could not get them a cabin booking. However, David confirmed that we had now got their original cabin for the following weeks sailing. Also the cargo ferry had not arrived so they had to leave the Lizzybus on the dock to be loaded up after their departure. Oh well, we will see what the Wadi Halfa experience has in store for us next week.
That evening, with the air conditioning, we had no problems sleeping. We enjoyed a couple of cold cans of beer in the room and disposed the empties carefully. Don’t wan to get caught and given 40 lashes. In the morning the receptionist, in excellent English told us we had to move the car as it was in a theater show area. I said that the manager had said we could park it there, but agreed to move it to a different part of the courtyard. Unfortunately, the socket in that area was dead so I unloaded the contents from the fridge and put it in the room fridge. The receptionist, who had one glass eye, had lived in many countries. He explained that he had lost his eye as punishment from God for all the bad things – mainly booze and woman - he had dome whilst living in Canada, Europe, Libya and Egypt. Furthermore, he said he deserved his punishment! We managed to get him to write down in Arabic the names of places we anted to visit that day, including somewhere that we could watch the Man Utd versus Barcelona in the Championship League final at Wembly the following evening. Barcelona are the clear favorites but you never know, remember the Bayern Munich final a decade ago when two goals by Teddy Sheridan and the ‘baby faced assassin’ Ole Gunnar Scholskear in the last 5 minutes saw Man Utd to a famous 2-1 victory.
The following morning the power went of at 7am. When I enquired at the reception what had happened I was told that there were repair works underway and power is scheduled to be turned on at 7pm that evening. This would prove to be a long hot ay as the air con provides a needed respite from the heat. A few hours wandering around the town in the hot sun is doable as long as you have a cool climate to recover in. We went to the internet café and caught up with some emails and world news. Dongola has a nice feel to it and the people were very welcoming. Buying a cool drink at a local shop often ended with the gift of a free banana. Whereas in most African countries you get shortchanged one way or the other, here in Sudan it is different. Later that afternoon we drank mint tea and I enjoyed a plate of local honey cake sweets. Everyone was talking about the upcoming football match and once enough people had requested the hotel manager to provide the channel with the match, he agreed to do it. 7pm came and went and we hoped that the power would return soon. We sat at a tea stall and waited and drank more tea. In Africa you do have to accept that time lines will probably not be adhered to so patience is required in large dollops. At 8.30pm the lights came on and there was a loud cheer from the streets. We headed back to the hotel room and bathed in the cool air. At 9.45pm the football match started and we joined a number of Sudanese fans around the TV. After a bright start by Man Utd, Barcelona put on a stunning display of passing football. Man Utd fans everywhere must have known what was coming and it soon did. Dominating possession by a wide margin Barcelona won the game 3-1 and no one can deny that they deserved the win. Rarely have Man Utd been so comprehensively outplayed.
The following morning we decided to stay for another day as we had got to like the town and its friendliness. We were in a routine and could mingle in with the locals and observe life as they lived it. When you are constantly on the move you can not have this level of observance, so it was different for us to wile away the hours this way. When we returned to the hotel the one-eyed manager said that the police intelligence division, or whatever they call themselves, had rang him to enquire why we had not left town yet. When you arrive in Sudanese towns you have to report to the police and be registered. Hotels will only let you stay once you have done this. We had said we would stay for three nights and, as we had not left, the police told the manager that we should check out. He told them we were guests and he could not do so. This seemed to do the trick but he said we should either go back and re-register (which is a laborious process) or leave in the morning. Fair enough, he had done us a favor by standing the police down. This registration system is a strange one and must be a hangover from the past.
The following morning we went to our local café and had a final cup of mint tea before packing our things. When we went to pay the manager changed us 60SDG per night instead of 69SDG, as long as we didn’t want a receipt. I made up some cheese and onion sandwiches for the road and filled our bottles with cold drinking water from the hotel. Wadi Halfa lay 400km away along the Nile and across the Nubian Desert. We did not expect comfortable accommodation in Wadi Halfa as the Lonely Planet had a poor write up. The road was fairly new and replaced the sand road where a few people died each year from getting lost in the desert. As we drove through the barren burnt landscape you could see how it would have been so easy to loose the road. After a couple of hours the tar road swung back towards the Nile River and we caught a few glimpses of the shimmering water between the date palm groves. Again I regretted not travelling through Sudan in the cooler months as the camping opportunities along the river and in the desert were endless. As lunch approached I looked for a route to take us to the river bank. I eventually found a small sand track and followed it through some low dunes. Luckily it was a good choice and we parked up on the river bank and had lunch and a well needed rest. The river is magnificent and you can easily picture the Pharaohs travelling this way from Upper to Lower Egypt. In fact, if you took away the power lines and the tar road then I doubt this place has changed much since those ancient times.
We pushed on towards Wadi Halfa and again the road headed back into the desert. The scenery suddenly changed into one that evoked an area of major ancient volcanism. We drove through landscapes that reminded me a lot of northern Namibia. Sharded black volcanic rocks stuck vertically out of the sand and I remember seeing this very same geological feature near to Sossusflei, Namibia. I was told at the time that this feature signaled that you were very near to the hot core. The difference here was that the sharded structures were massive and numerous. I must do a search on Google to find out more about the ‘Nubian’ volcanic. Funny enough it was in a lodge at Sossusflei that I actually met and dined with Sergei Brin (co-founder of Google) and his lovely wife Anne. I thought that Sudan was mostly just one big flat desert and had little interesting geology. I wouldn’t be surprised if there are some significant metallic deposits to be discovered here somewhere. Exploration work would be seasonal as no one in their right minds would explore this furnace at this time of the year.
After six hours of driving we arrived at Wadi Halfa. I had GPS coordinates for our fixer Mr. Magdi so we proceeded to that point. When we arrived I went into the Kilopatra Hotel to enquire and was told that we were booked here at 30SDG per night. We then noticed the hotel had a couple of rooms with air con so asked if they were available. They were, but were more than double the price. We took half a second to take the air con room and at 80 SDG (UK£16) per night was well worth it to ensure we could sleep. A while later Mr. Magdi turned up and we had a brief chat with him. He told us that the Lizzybus had left on Saturday as there had been some problems with the car ferry. He said that the car ferry would be here late Wednesday of Thursday and we should not have any delays. Don’t hold your breath for that one. Mr. Magdi clearly knows his stuff and we were soon delving into the paperwork required to depart. Once completed, he took our passports and Carnet and said he would start to process them the following day meet us later that day around midday. His cost is US$500 for two persons First Class cabin, car passage, customs and ‘other’ associated charges. Basically he makes around US$50 for ‘fixing’, which at this stage of the journey is fine. He also mentioned there were three overland cars coming in on the ferry. This was good news as it indicated the Alexandria to Venice ferry was still in operation. There are a few ‘fixers’ in Wadi and in Aswan and details for the ones I have heard positive things about are; Wadi Halfa - Mr. Magdi (nubatia51@yahoo.com, mobile 0121730885), Mr. Mazar Mahir (mahirmashansharti@gmail.com, mobile +249 122380740) – Aswan, Mr. Mohammed Abouda (Aboudanilfeluka@hotmail.com, mobile +20 125111968), Mr. Kamal who teams up with Mr. Magdi (mobile 201 05322669)
We enjoyed a couple of cans of cold beer in the room and cooled off. Later we headed to the restaurant area which is next to a prominent hill. The desert sunset was a good one and the evening was relatively cool because of a pleasant breeze.
The following morning we sauntered down to the square and drank some tea. At 10am Mr. Magdi turned up on his way to the port and we caught up briefly with the days proceedings. Basically we would not see much of him that day. The hours drifted by and at least there was a fair breeze blowing through so it was nowhere near as hot as the towns in the Nubian or Bayouda deserts. Later that afternoon I called Mr. Magdi and he came around to the hotel to go through proceedings the following day and also to assist us with contacting Mr. Kamal in Aswan. I discussed prices with Mr. Magdi and showed him amounts that other overlanders had paid in Aswan. He called Mr. Kamal and said that he agreed to do the same for us. Basically the cost of clearing customs in Aswan, obtaining a number plate and buying insurance is around E£880 (US$145). The paperwork is apparently tedious on the Egypt side so I was happy to agree to Mr. Kamal’s service. Mr. Magdi also said that the big cargo ferry still had not left Aswan and he was trying to get the smaller cargo ferry here for Wednesday or Thursday. We would have to leave Proper Job with Mr. Magdi to drive onto the cargo ferry whenever it arrives. This is no big deal as he has done this numerous times for his customers.
Later that afternoon I decided to get my spare keys out of the safe to give to Mr. Magdi the following day. I had had a spare main key cut in Fez, Morocco and I decided this would be the one I would leave with Mr. Magdi. I casually tried the key in the door locks and it worked fine. Something then urged me to try the ignition with it. I did, and it did not work. I could only imagine the inconvenience and utter despair that I would feel if I had arrived in Aswan after an 18 hour ferry journey only to be told that Mr. Magdi could not put Proper Job on the ferry as he could open the doors but couldn’t start the engine. It would have meant a mind numbing trip back to Wadi Halfa with all the associated visa problems etc etc. Whatever or whoever urged me to try the key in the ignition, thanks. I packed up Proper Job and put any valuables that we would not carry on the ferry into the safe. That evening we had a few cold Tusker beers in the room. All our Kilimanjaro beers from Tanzania had now gone so we were into our last two crates of Kenyan beer. At this rate, with the soon-to-be abundance of Sukara beer in Egypt, we may well have a crate of Tusker left to give to our travel buddy Jane when we get back to Cornwall.
The following day Mr. Magdi turned up at 11am and returned our passports sating he would come to the hotel at 1pm to take us to the port where the rest of the paperwork would quickly be completed. We packed a six pack into our carry on luggage to drink whilst sailing across Lake Nasser. Mr. Magdi turned up on time and we drove to the customs. He explained that he feared that with the regular car ferry being so delayed that we should try and get Proper Job a berth on one of the other cargo boats. The problem was that the captains all had letters from the Nile River Shipping Company stating that only the official car ferry was to take vehicles. If we could convince the captain of a boat (that was the old car ferry) then it would save us a few days in Aswan. However, a small fee needed to be paid to the captain. We drove down to the cargo dock and met the captain. After a brief discussion he said he would do it. Our first offer price, on Mr. Magdi’s guess, was not accepted. We then upped the price to UK20 and the deal was done. We headed back to immigration and were whisked through all formalities very quickly. When we got to the customs we were not carrying any bags as they were already through the gate in Proper Job. Our beers were safe. By 2.30pm we were on the passenger ferry. The boat is dirty, to say the least, and they don’t seem to clean it between changeovers. We got to our cabin, which was not much better. At least we had our own space and an air con that we could cool our beers on. We said farewell to Mr. Magdi, who had done a good job for us and is clearly well connected in Wadi Halfa.
The boat departed at 5pm and we cruised up the Nile for a while before entering Lake Nasser. It was a strange feeling leaving Proper Job alone and in the hands of s stranger. This was the first time during the entire trip around Africa that we had been parted. It would be good to see Proper Job safely on the Egyptian side in a four days time. Our passports were taken from us as soon as we entered the boat and then are returned later that evening to be cleared by Egyptian immigration during the boat trip. The hours went by and we drank our beers looking across Lake Nasser. At 9pm we sailed by the Abu Simbel tomb complex, which looked spectacular lit up. Although the first class cabin was an eyesore, we got a good nights’ sleep. The following morning we skipped breakfast as the restaurant looked like a chimp’s tea party. At 11pm the ferry docked in Aswan.
Saturday 21 May 2011
ETHIOPIA
Ireland, Ireland....Hello, Give Me, Give Me
The drive to the Ethiopian border from Marsabit was every bit as bad as we had heard. The road is relentless and consists of kilometre after kilometre of rocks and nasty corrugations. We were pleased that we had cut out a big chunk of this road by coming across the Chalbi desert from Lake Turkana. This road to Ethiopia challenges you to damage your vehicle. We travelled the 200km from Marsabit to Moyale with the Lizzybus and on the way they lost their new solar panel and a couple of legs from their barbeque. The driver has to concentrate tirelessly at all times on this route and there are no easy stretches to relieve the pounding of vehicle and occupants. We rotated driving every two hours in order to keep fresh. By the end of the journey, averaging around 25km per hour, we only had some slight damage to a roll bar bracket and had developed a ‘leak’ in the wheel hubs.
Once we arrived, we were through the border within an hour. One scam on the Ethiopian side to watch for is a group of ‘officials’ that claim visitors need to pay a development fee. The customs officer gave us the heads up that this is not compulsory so we politely refused and drove to the nearby Koket Hotel where we would overnight. When we arrived at the hotel we discovered there were no rooms available but they would gladly let us camp for 100 Birr (£4). The facilities were not great so it is worth asking for access to a room.
Later I inspected the damaged roll bar bracket and bush and saw that the bottom holding plate had been worn through. A simple reversal of this with one of the other plates would fix it, but unfortunately I sheared off one of the bolts whilst doing so. This now meant that I could not travel on rough roads as the whole bracket would snap off. The logical decision was to head northwards to the large regional town called Awassa so I could get it fixed. Unfortunately, this meant I would miss the Omo Valley and Arba Minch on Lake Chalmo. We had an enjoyable evening with Dave and Jane from the Lizzybus and although the goat meat dish was tough, Dave managed to finish two whole dishes.
The following morning we both drove to Yabello, a small town about 200km north. From here I would make some enquiries and, depending on the outcome, would either head to the Omo Valley or keep going north to Awassa. We arrived at Yabello and found the only decent place to stay was the Yabello Motel. Again camping was on offer, but the rooms were £10 each so we decided to take one. A couple of hours later the Lizzybus arrived and did the same. I asked a couple of tour guide drivers about mechanics and they said there was a local welding garage in Yabello that should be able to remove the sheared bolt. The Lizzybus decided to head to Arba Minch the following morning and skip the remote Omo Valley in the southwest corner of Ethiopia. I decided to give the local welders a go but suspected I would be heading northwards to Awassa to get it fixed.
I drove to the welders and they, as expected, confirmed they could extract the bolt by welding another bolt onto it. My concern was they would end up welding the bolt to the chassis and then I would have an even bigger problem. I got under Proper Job with the welder and he managed to successfully weld the old bolt. After he snapped the weld a couple of times I decided a gentler approach was needed. I worked the bolt a quarter turn by quarter turn and eventually managed to get the sheared bolt stub out. I got a new bolt and holding bracket from my spares kit and within an hour we were heading westwards to catch up with the Lizzybus at Arba Minch.
After a four hour journey along roads which varied from perfect tar to well graded sections we arrived at Arba Minch, located on an escarpment in the Rift Valley overlooking Lake Abaya and Lake Chalmo. The landscape was lush as the rains had arrived and we drove through some scenic high hill country. Based on what I had seen so far, I suspected that Ethiopia would turn out to be a pleasant surprise. Things also appeared to be really cheap here. A good gauge is the beer price which is 30 pence a bottle and a good clean room costs no more than £10 per night. We didn’t know where the Lizzybus had decided to camp in Arba Minch so took the first turning towards Swaynes Lodge. A hundred metres later we saw them pulled into a small lodge and reconnected. They had already checked out a few other places and found this place to be the best value. The rooms and facilities were fine and it cost 150 Birr (£6) per room. That evening we pondered on what to do in this region. I really wanted to go to the Lower Omo Valley to see some tribes that, with time, would be spoilt by tourism. We met a couple of tour guides that told us the roads to Turmi were fine at the moment as the rains had been sporadic. When the rains really start in the Omo Valley it is very easy to get bogged down and delayed for days awaiting the rivers to fall to a point where one can cross safely.
The following morning the Lizzybus departed and headed northwards around the western side of Lake Abaya to Awassa. We decided to stay another day in Arba Minch and visit a couple of local sites. The first was the Nechisar National Park which lies between the two lakes. We set off into the park with an armed guide. Not sure why they needed to be armed but no point arguing. The track started off as sandy but when we approached the hills it turned into a serious off road driving exercise. The road became a rock one and the winding slopes 45 degrees. I knew Proper Job could handle these steep inclines in low range first gear and we clambered up and around the hills. We did not see any animals and the further we got into the drive the more it became apparent that this would not be a simple pleasurable drive around the lakes. After an hour and a half I decided to call it quits and told the guard we were going back. It really was not worth putting Proper Job through the grinder again, especially after the abysmal road from Kenya to the Ethiopian border. We were quite relieved to get out of the park and headed back to town to grab a cold drink.
The rest of the afternoon we took it easy and started planning our long journey into the remote Lower Omo Valley. That evening we met another guide that confirmed the route to Turmi, which is the centre of the Hamer tribe’s territory. We wanted to visit the Hamer (known for ‘jumping the bulls’ and body scarification), the Karo (known for their body paintings) and the Mursi (known for their lip disk) tribes. The next day we left Arba Minch and headed back to Konso, which is the turnoff to the Lower Omo Valley. Our progress was very slow due to the large number of cattle and goats on the road. They were been driven to water and to grazing lands and we slowly worked our way through the herds. Arriving at Konso we headed west to Weyto along the road that leads to Jinka. This road is excellent and is mostly tar. We drove through a mountain range and descended into a large wide valley. A couple of hours later we arrived at Weyto where we took the dirt road southwest towards Lake Stephanie. There were no signs of any rains and the dirt road was in good shape. As we reached Lake Stephanie the dusty landscape became marshy as we continued heading towards the Lower Omo Valley. After a further two hours driving at 50kmph we left the wide flat plains and turned towards a range of hills. We crossed a number of dried riverbeds and made our way upwards through the hills. We did not see any other traffic along the way. Still there was no sign of the rains and we eventually dropped down into the Lower Omo Valley.
We arrived at Turmi and pulled into the Buske Lodge. The prices were expensive and the only place for a roof tent was in the car park. We spoke to a local guide and, on his advice, we decided to go to the village to arrange a guide for the following day and check out a couple of other places. We went to the Tourist Hotel where all the guides hangout and made arrangements with a guide called Turk. Our plan was to visit a Hamer village that afternoon and then to drive 70km westwards the following day to a very remote Karo village on the eastern bank of the Omo River. Turk also told us there was a good campsite near to Buske Lodge called Mango Camp. We drove to Mango Camp and found it to be very good.
Later that afternoon we picked up Turk and drove along a non descript pathway through the bush to a Hamer village. Upon arrival a number of villagers came out to see us. They are a very striking, strong proud looking people. They reminded me somewhat of the Himba people of north western Namibia. The Hamer also use an ochre and fat mixture to redden and protect their skin. You can’t but help notice the scarification on the backs of the Hamer people. Apparently the men scarify themselves once they have killed a foe. The women scarify themselves as it is supposed to make them more desirable. The scars are large and look like they have been caused by a cat-o-nine-tails. From a western perspective it appears senseless and brutal. I winced at the pain they must endure to get their scars. We walked around the village and went inside a house to see how they live. Their homes have an odour of fire and animal skin, but do not really offend the senses. The people were friendly and happily posed for photos for a small fee of 2 Birr each.
Later we drove back to Turmi and stopped for a cold drink at the Tourist Hotel. We met a tour operator called Kassa whom we had bumped into in Arba Minch. We chatted about the tribes in the area as well as the routes that would be badly affected by the rains if they came. Kassa had given us very good information previously so when he mentioned that, to visit the Mursi villages, you have to drive 65km from Jinka we realised we could be in for some long drives on potentially dreadful roads. He also said that he did not like going there as the Mursi were aggressive and unscrupulous. This was not the first time we had heard such things of the lip plated Mursi. As we headed back to camp we wondered whether it was worth going up to Jinka and into the Mago National Park to see the Mursi.
The following morning we met Turk at 8am and headed westwards to a remote Karo village. We definitely needed a guide to find this place as most of the trip was along a narrow sandy track that led past the village of Murulle to the Omo River. We were now deep into the Lower Omo Valley and way off the beaten track. A couple of times we needed to back track to find a way around areas affected by recent rains. Eventually we arrived at a village located spectacularly upon a high bank towering over a bend in the Omo River. From this position we saw canoes crossing the river and these provide the only means of getting to the other side. There are no bridges or ferries. Soon a number of villagers appeared and approached us. I immediately noticed that they carried either spears or Kalashnikov guns. The Karo tribe are thought to be one of the most endangered groups in the Omo Valley. They paint themselves in earthy colours that give them a war-like appearance. It was here, on the banks of the Omo River, that I decided would be a fitting place to depart with the soccer ball that Proper Job had carried all around Africa. When I got the ball out, a serious looking gun toting villager walked forward. I asked Turk, our guide, who would be the best person to give it to so as to be a gift to the whole village. I was directed towards a teacher and made my way from the scowling gun toting villager and made some polite talk with the teacher. He was very grateful, but didn’t seem to reckon any of the famous footballers I mentioned. I thought about this, and realised just how isolated these tribes are; there are few people in the world that haven’t heard of Beckham, Rooney and Ronaldo. I wondered if they even know how to play football here. Maybe the ball would end up dropping the 100 metres into the Omo River and floating way down stream to another, maybe more remote tribe. We took some nice photos and said our farewells. I can imagine in a few years time, as roads are built and tarred, that this valley will get bus loads of tourists. At that point, these tribes will be changed forever; for better or for worse, that is a major debating point.
We drove back to Turmi and decided to give the planned trip to Jinka and the Mursi people a miss. Instead we would visit the Monday Hamer market and stay another night. The market was full of Hamer tribe’s people buying and selling goods. We wondered around observing these proud strong people in their traditional attire. As we walked around we realised that the sky had started to take on an ominous look.
The day had been dull, but the clouds were now building darkly and looked like a big downpour could be on its way. There are two large river crossings that we had been told would be a problem if the rain came. If it rained heavily then you could easily wait for a couple of days before they were passable. We thought long and hard about the merits of staying another day but decided it would be wise to leave that afternoon. We could get as far as Konso and the trip would take us about three hours. As we drove out of Turmi we saw that even the light rains from the night before had had an impact on the river crossings. We drove back through the hills and along the scenic plains of Lake Stephanie. I can now see how the Omorate border crossing from Lake Turkana in northern Kenya would become impassable in the rainy season. We did not see any other overlanders in the Omo Valley and guess no one would be taking that crossing until the rains had gone. Our decision to cross the Chalbi desert to Marsabit rather than enter Ethiopia via Omorate appeared to have been the right choice. However, I would love to have done the Omorate route in the dry season.
When we arrived in Konso we headed to the Edget Hotel, which had been recommended in the Lonely Planet. One look and I decided to look elsewhere. We headed back up the hill to a lodge in construction that is owned by Hess Travel. We were told that a room cost US$65 per night. I asked about camping and they said that would cost 100 Birr each. They even threw in access to one of their chalets. This was a real bargain so we quickly accepted the offer and found a level place to camp. As we were setting up a couple of guests peered down at us from their veranda. After a while they enquired where we were from and we struck up a great conversation that lasted throughout the evening. Harley and Mina, from South London, had just returned from the Omo Valley and had, in the past, done a number of camping trips into Namibia and Botswana. We later realised we had met their tour guide in Turmi and he confirmed that heavy rains had indeed come the day we left. We knew we were lucky to have got out when we did.
We had a fun dinner that evening with Harley and Mina and at 10pm crashed out. Later that night John had a serious bout of stomach problems. This, on top of his worsening foot, was all that he needed. The next morning he looked quite ill, but it clearly wasn’t the food as we had all eaten the same. The symptoms became more and more flu-like and almost identical to the symptoms Sam had shown in South Africa before being diagnosis as having contracted malaria.
We left Konso and headed back towards Yabello. Overnight rains had noticeably roughened the graded road and it took us longer than we thought to reach Yabello. When we pulled into the Yabello Motel we found the place almost fully occpied. Luckily we got a room and John crashed out after I insisted he started a course of Malerone to hopefully cure his malaria.
I did some minor checks on Proper Job and started my Ethiopia blog. Later that afternoon I heard from the Lizzybus, who were now in Addis Ababa camped at Wims House, which is a well known over-landers hangout. They had got their Egypt visa in a day and were applying for their Sudan visa on Wednesday. Hopefully we can hook up with them before they leave Addis and head towards the Simien Mountains. That evening it rained heavily and it was a clear sign that the rainy season had now started in earnest. I was pleased we had left the Omo Valley before these heavy rains hit. That evening I watched Man Utd thrash Schalke 04 from Germany, although it took a long time for the winning goals to come. The return match at Old Trafford in one week time should see United go through to the final.
The following morning we left Yabello and headed northwards to Awassa. John was in no fit condition to drive so I faced a couple of days of long stints at the wheel. With so many domestic animals and people on the roads this is not an ideal situation. Again, it seemed only a matter of time before John caught malaria; he does not wear long trousers and long sleeve shirts in the evening, does not use anti mossie spray and doesn’t take anti malaria tablets. He has been bitten hundreds of times during the trip so the final outcome did not surprise. The ‘result’ however has an impact; the other person has to drive unnecessary long distances or the journey is forced to a standstill awaiting recovery.
The drive through the hills to Awassa was pleasant and the condition of the road good. After seven hours driving we reached Awassa and took the turn towards the mountain village of Wendo Genet. This small hillside village would be a good place to stop for a couple of days whilst John recuperated from his malaria. We stayed at the Wendo Genet Resort and took a couple of rooms. That afternoon I found a good guide that would take me on a trek into the forested hills the following morning. That evening I watched the ill tempered semi final between Real Madrid and Barcelona.
The next morning at 6am I met the guide and began a three hour trek into the hills. I could tell that I was not very fit after my travels around Africa and realised that I would have to get right back into my swimming training when I get back to Cornwall. Along the way we saw many new species of birds and the tally for my Africa trip soared that day to over 550 different species. Unfortunately there are a lot of signs of logging in this area and a German Ornithology group I met later in the restaurant confirmed that the de-forestation of these hills was disastrous. Probably the highlight of the new birds I saw was a Narina Trogon that I caught a glimpse of along a river. It was a spectacular sight but unfortunately I was not able to take a photograph. Upon my return to the resort, I lazed about whilst John continued to rest. Again the rains came and we hoped that as we continued our travels northwards we would eventually reach drier climes.
The following morning John showed some signs of improvement as the Malerone course took effect on the malaria. This was good news and I figured in a couple of days he would be back to normal. With his current state of health we could not go to the Bale Mountains. I had wanted to do this to try and see the very rare Ethiopian Wolf. I pondered on the options and decided the best thing was to move northwards to Addis Ababa and start the process for my remaining two visas in Africa; Egypt and Sudan. I had a text message from the Lizzybus saying that they had now got both visas and, surprisingly, did not need a letter of introduction from the British Embassy to get their Sudan visa. This is the first time I had heard of this letter not being required.
The next morning we checked out and I casually enquired how long it would take to get to Addis by road. We were told three hours, which surprised me as I thought we were a lot closer. When I checked my GPS I realised that my earlier estimate was too a different town. We guessed, at best, we would try and submit our Egypt visa that day (which was a Friday). On the way we needed to get a paper receipt for our bank visa cards as part of the paperwork needed to support the application for an Egypt visa. The traffic became progressively worse towards Addis and we arrived at the Egypt Embassy at 12.30 to find visa applications finished at 11am on a Friday. I politely insisted that we wanted to speak directly to the visa section and was told the office staff returned at 1pm. The Royal Wedding was now in full swing and we caught a glimpse of it whilst waiting for the staff to return from lunch. I had a plan to try and convince the staff to let us submit our application form, even though we were late. That week, the Lizzybus had given a staff member a lift to hospital as she was in labour. When the visa staff returned I read them the text from the Lizzybus wanting to know whether it was a boy or a girl. This appeared to do the trick and they let us submit our applications late. We were told to comeback on Monday afternoon to pick them up.
We stopped at a nearby cafe for a coffee and bite to eat and then drove to a garage called General Motors that had been recommended by Paul Marsh at Footloose4x4. I needed a 5000km service done and also the hub seals changed on both wheel ball joints. The garage management knows the owner of Wims House very well. We were told to bring Proper Job in at 8am on Monday and we should be able to collect Tuesday afternoon. Luckily I have the spare parts required for the hub repair, so hope that it will go smoothly.
We then drove to Wims House and caught up with Dave and Jane of the Lizzybus. They had been here for a week and we made some tentative plans for the crossing from Sudan into Egypt on the Wadi Halfi ferry. Both Dave and I had contacts that we could use for ‘facilitators’ and we emailed them to let them know we would be catching the ferry on 1st June. The conflict in Libya has resulted in many Sudanese fleeing and returning to Sudan which means the ferry is extremely busy. Although only 400 or so people are supposed to be on the ferry at any one time, currently the number is nearer 600.
Saturday night was Reggae night at Wims and many people turned up to listen and dance to the entertaining band. After a few fun hours I returned to the camp site to get some sleep. I noticed another vehicle had arrived and scratched my head to figure out where I had seen it before. The plates showed it was from Estonia and I immediately recalled meeting a traveller from that country when we were in Nouakchott, Mauritania. Waking up the next morning I caught sight of the driver and confirmed it indeed was Tarmo. It was great to catch up and find out where he had been since Mauritania. He has followed my Blog and was up to speed with where and what I had been up to since Mauritania. After reaching Benin he had returned to Estonia and, getting itchy feet again, planned his trip down the east coast of Africa via Turkey and Syria. He is a very resourceful individual and has managed to navigate his way through some tricky situations.
On Sunday we visited the National Museum and spent some time browsing through their interesting fossil display on the origins of humans. It seems most important discoveries have taken place in Ethiopia and has this has been described as the ‘cradle of civilisation’. Later that afternoon I gathered the various spare parts and filters required for Proper Job’s visit to the highly recommended General Motors garage (+251-11-1235336). We still have not escaped the rains which arrive on cue most afternoons.
The following morning we drove Proper Job to the garage and were told it should be ready the following afternoon. On arrival back at Wims we heard that Al Qaeda leader Osama Bin Laden had been killed by US Special Forces in Pakistan the previous evening, 2nd May 2011. I remember hearing the news of the twin towers 9/11 tragedy whilst salmon fishing with friends in eastern Canada. Ten years later, news of this seemingly important milestone was heard in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
The Lizzybus headed northwards towards the Simien Mountains and we planned to meet them on the 18th May near to the Sudan border where we would cross in convoy prior to the expiry of our Ethiopia visas. Later that afternoon we went to the Egypt Embassy and picked up our visas. The whole process was very straightforward and the staff extremely helpful. That evening it rained heavily in Addis and we spent some hours in the bar chatting with other over-landers.
The following morning we took a taxi to the Sudan Embassy to begin the process of getting a visa. This was the final visa I would need to get on my Africa trip and I reflected on the numerous countries and challenges I had faced whilst circumnavigating the continent. I also remembered the friends who had helped me on the way and they had made the trek that bit easier. The West African route had definitely been far harder than the East African route.
All the information I had gathered on getting a Sudan visa stated that a letter of introduction was needed from your own embassy. Curiously, Dave and Jane from the Lizzybus had not been asked for one, so when we turned up at the Sudan Embassy we did not know what to expect. We arrived just before 9am and asked for an application form. I was immediately asked if I had my Egyptian visas, to which I replied yes. They did not ask for a letter of introduction so we filled in the form requesting a Tourist Visa. We then attached two photos, a copy of the Egypt visa, our passports and a copy of the passport. We submitted our forms and were told to come back in one hour to make payment. We headed across the road to a cafe. An hour later we came back and were given our application form and passport and told to go to the payment office. We paid our US$100 each and were told to come back the following day at 3pm.
We headed back to Wims place and I awaited a call from the garage so I could go and pick up Proper Job. At 2.30pm I received a call and took a taxi to the garage. The workshop manager called Deme came over and took me through the work that had been done. Proper Job was looking so clean. They had even cleaned the engine and the underneath with benzene and I had not seen those areas this clean since leaving the UK. Deme told me that Proper Job was in good shape and that the lubricating grease from the ball joint was due to a worn seal. They had replaced the seals using the hub kit I had provided them out of my substantial spares kit. Actually, I have not used many of the items in the spares kit that I got from Paul Marsh at Footloose4x4. Deme was impressed with what I had and I knew it is certainly a well thought out kit. I drove back to Wims and set up the tent to air it out. The rest of the afternoon I spent time with my Estonian friend Tarmo, going through routes I had taken around Africa.
The following morning was sunny so I took the opportunity to do some laundry and re-pack Proper Job. I changed some dollars and headed down town for a light lunch and visited an internet cafe. On the way back I casually checked a Dashen Bank ATM and was really surprised that it accepted MasterCard. I had been told by many people and read in books that Ethiopia banks only accepted visa cards. This Dashen Bank ATM is in the foyer of the Ras Hotel, just a 5 minute walk from Wims House.
We decided to leave Addis as soon as we got our Sudan Visa and drive north of the city for an hour or so. I felt it was better to get the ‘city traffic’ drive out of the way so we had a clean two day trip covering 550km to Lake Tana. We said farewell to Wim and his wife, Tarmo and the other over-landers. I especially wished Tarmo all the best in his travels around Africa and the other continents he was determined to visit. We then headed back to the Sudan Embassy and, upon arrival, were immediately called up and given our passports. We did not get a Tourist Visa as requested, only a two week Transit Visa. I am not sure if they would have required a letter of introduction for a Tourist Visa or whether they have scrapped the need for the letter altogether. If needed, we could extend them in Sudan. We were also reminded that we needed to complete an Alien Registration with the Sudan police within three days of arriving in Sudan, at a cost 0f US$50 per person. In total, the Sudan visa is the most expensive so far on my Africa trip.
We headed out of Addis which took us an hour to get through. An hour after leaving Addis we arrived at Sululta, a town with significant things going on. I gathered it is a major agricultural area as it is prosperous and there is a fair amount lot of construction underway. We found a hotel for the night and you could by the room price that the town was doing well. However, it was now getting late and the hotel offered secure parking. That evening we watched Man Utd beat Schalke 04 in the second leg to go to through to the final against Barcelona.
The next day we had a quick breakfast and got back on the road. We intended to get to Debre Marcos which lies about half way to Lake Turkana. The distance to cover was 270km and the drive is through spectacular highland scenery. The temperature got noticeably cooler as we climbed to over 3000 metres above sea level. After climbing to the top we dropped down into a deep and impressive canyon that has been cut by the Blue Nile River. We dropped over 2km into the canyon in second gear and crossed the Blue Nile River. The climb out of the canyon proved no problem for Proper Job and we arrived in Debre Marcos at around 3pm. We headed to the Hotel Shebal and found it to be good value. That afternoon I caught up with my Blog and did some reading on places to stay around Lake Tana.
The drive northwards towards Lake Tana was through a hilly attractive landscape that was dominated by agricultural activity. Again one has to watchful of the animals and people that in parts crowd the road. Animals in particular need great attention and the young children that you sometimes see in charge do not have the best control. On occasions as you approach they hit the animals with sticks that makes them veer out in front of you. Not sure if this is done on purpose or is a pure lack of experience. The valleys and plains are clearly very fertile and crops abound. Unfortunately there are not many trees around, only where there is a river or piece of land that is too awkward to plough. The hillsides are heavily terraced. After a few hours driving we arrived at Bahir Dar, which is a town of 96,000 people located along the shoreline of the huge Lake Tana. We drove to the government run Ghion Hotel which we had heard mixed reports on. The hotel is right on the shore and the gardens shrouded in huge old trees. We checked the rooms and for the price of 150Birr (UK£6) a room was great value. That evening we enjoyed fine Ethiopian fasting food and a couple of cold St George beers.
The following morning we ate breakfast in the gardens that were full of bird life. I was lucky enough to see a pair of Double Toothed Barbets on a branch and managed to take one picture before they disappeared. I had been in touch with people who could assist us with getting tickets for the Wadi Halfi ferry crossing into Egypt from Sudan, and needed to make a PDF copy of passports and Carnet so they could prepare the necessary paperwork in advance. Additionally they would organise the driving license and vehicle number plates needed for Egypt. The help would save a lot of stress and hassle and, for a fee of around US$100 per vehicle, I considered a fair deal. We made the copies at a nearby internet cafe and grabbed some more cash from the Dashen Bank ATM (which again accepted MasterCard).
We headed back to Ghion Hotel and had refreshment in the garden. Whilst drinking a cold juice a gorgeous male African Paradise Flycatcher alighted only a few feet away. Firstly, these shy birds rarely venture out of thick cover and this one had also begun to morph from a chestnut red to a white plumage. I was able to take a couple of pictures before it flew back into the trees, but after so many attempts to take a good picture throughout Africa I eventually had a pretty decent shot. At midday we left Bahir Dar and headed eastwards towards the somewhat mystical Lalibela.
Two hours from Bahir Dar you take a dirt road that leads up through spectacular highlands. The road is in very good condition and leads up and over a series of plateau ridges almost 3km above sea level. Approaching Lalibela you notice the strong Christian influence. Lalibela is now a World Heritage Site and famous for its unique churches. The town is perched on a hillside and we made our way along a small road to the Asheton Hotel which had been recommended to us by the Lizzybus. We parked in the small courtyard and checked the rooms out. We were impressed with the comfort and ambience. Again the price (150Birr per room) was excellent value. Each hotel was a representative from the Guide Association and we were soon approached. We were told a full day was 450Birr but we insisted that friends had recently had the same for 350Birr. They soon agreed to our price, and it was only afterwards that I found out that the Lizzybus had actually only had their guide for half a day. That evening we ate at the Unique Restaurant which lay across the road from the hotel. The food was basic but was fine. It rained hard that evening and the corrugated iron roofing of the hotel rattled with rain drops for most of the night.
The following morning we met with our guide and headed down to the southern set of churches. There was a large sermon underway at the entrance to the churches and hundreds of people sat and listened. We managed to use the same entrance ticket that Dave and Jane from the Lizzybus had. We owe them a few beers for that. The churches are impressive to look at, but it was only when I realised they are carved out of ONE solid piece of rock that I was lost for words. Walking around inside you cannot help but marvel at the workmanship and human effort that created these. At one point Lalibela was the capital of the vast empire of Abyssinia. It was, and still is today, of great importance to the world of Christianity. As we wondered around the six churches in the southern section I imagined it was places such as this that famous novelist, Wilbur Smith, must have got his inspiration from to write his amazing Africa based adventures.
The sense of history makes for a fascinating tour and after a couple of hours we decided to break until after lunch. There is so much to take in that it is not productive to cram it all in to a morning session. We agreed to meet our guide again at 14.30 to visit the northern churches and headed to the Seven Olives Hotel for brunch. After an excellent brunch we headed back to our hotel for a siesta. It trained heavily for a couple of hours but by 14.00 had stopped. I took a brisk walk down to another hotel to meet with a Swiss couple that had a Sudan SIM card for me. I didn’t realise how far away their hotel was and after two kilometres walking quickly in rising humidity I arrived. They also had some Sudanese money which I exchanged from them. With time running out I headed back to the meeting place which was all up hill. Thankfully I still have a semblance of fitness from my swimming so made it to the top where I gulped down a litre of water.
The northern churches are also very impressive and, whilst not as well finished as the southern set, were probably even more mysterious than the southern churches. One church we came to has a deep pool and a long dark tunnel that led to a room that the priest Lalibela stayed. There is so much history and important facts that are tied to this place that one cannot capture it in a simple blog. We had a great time touring these remarkable structures and began to realise how special a place this is.
Today was the deciding game in the Premiership where Man Utd play Chelsea at home for the title decider. We found a TV hall which had satellite TV and turned up at 5.45pm to get a seat. The place was already full but the owner managed to find us a couple of seats. I was on the front bench with a load of kids who were all avid Utd supporters. It amazes me just how deep football clubs penetrate even the remotest of places. The game kicked off and the place erupted when Hernandez scored for Utd within a minute of kick off. That was a dream start and Chelsea never recovered. The game ended 2-1 to Und but really should have been 4-1. I hope I will be in a place that I can watch the Barcelona v Man Utd final of the Champions League later this month.
The following morning we had another great breakfast at Seven Olives and then packed up and drove to the edge of town. We stopped and chatted briefly with Dutch overlanders Roland and Paul, who asked if they could follow us along a scenic route that leads directly northwards from Lalibela to Sekouta, where a right turn leads back to the main road at Korem. My Estonian friend Tarmo had told me about this route and so I was confident that it would turn out to be worthwhile. Indeed it turned out to be fantastic and the quality dirt road led us over beautiful high hills and through stunning gorges. This route is rarely visited by tourist who follow the recommendations in the Lonely Planet. Hence, the people you encounter along the way are much less influenced by the trappings and you genuinely feel that you have entered into true unscathed rural Ethiopian highlands. Three hours later we arrived at Korem and had thoroughly enjoyed the journey.
We drove along the tarred road to the large town of Mekele with its population of almost 100,000. We could have stopped for the night at a couple of small towns along the way. We didn’t and the drive lasted about two hours too long. By the time we reached Mekele we were very tired and, in hindsight, we should have stopped earlier. We drove to the Hill Top Hotel which had been recommended to us by a couple of travellers. When we got there we were told that we could have a room but had to check out at 7am the following morning as the whole hotel had been booked by the Ministry of Defence. That was not going to work for us so we went to two further hotels only to find they were fully booked. We had passed a nice looking hotel called Milano so decided to check that one out. It had been a long day and we were pleased to find that Milano had rooms available for one night and at a bargain price of 180Birr. The hotel also had secure parking around the back and we got our gear out of Proper Job and headed to the room. On the way through the foyer I noticed the Dutch guys Roland and Paul whom had followed us from Lalibela along the off the beaten track to Korem. They had also tried a number of hotels in Mekele and found all fully booked or ridiculously overpriced. One hotel had even asked them 150Birr to park their car. We discovered the reason all hotels were booked was because the Ministry of Defence had a five day sports event on. Anyway, we would now only stay one night instead of two.
The following morning we headed into town to see if we could find a fast internet cafe. Unfortunately we could not and after a delicious mango avocado juice we checked out of the hotel and drove to a fuel station to fill up with diesel. There are not so many fuel stations here in northern Ethiopia so it is better to fill up your tank whenever you can, just in case. Our goal today was not to have a long drive and we decided that Adigrat, which lay around 70km away, would suit us fine. We turned off the tar road at Wukro to take a route through a valley where many rock hewn churches exist. After ten kilometres I decided to turn back as the road was much worse than I had been told. We got back to the main road and headed northwards again. The scenery along the way was again very pleasing and we made good progress. Some 20km before our destination we noticed a heavy rainstorm in the hills that lay before Adigrat. The road here was under construction and the heavy rain had made the road very slippery. We had to drive in first gear for a few kilometres and saw many vehicles lose their traction and skid wildly across the road. On one particular downhill stretch we were the only ones that attempted it, but Proper Job did not let us down. We arrived in Adigrat and made our way towards the Selwit Hotel that was recommended in the Lonely Planet. When we got there via a series of cobbled roads we found it was shut. I decided to head back to the main road to cruise for an alternative. There appeared to be a fair bit of development here and after a few hundred metres came across the Eve Hotel which looked quite posh. I thought the price would be around 800Birr but was surprised when he said 198Birr. I snapped a room up and parked Proper Job in a narrow internal parking bay. We relaxed for the rest of the afternoon and I caught up with my blog. We decided to stay for one night and head towards Axum, which lies on the northern section of the scenic loop we were taking back to Lake Tana, the following day.
Arriving in Axum we noticed the Lizzybus parked outside the Africa Hotel. We decided to check into the same hotel and find out what was worth visiting in the area. The rooms were basic but adequate for a couple of nights. The following morning we headed up to the northern stele park, which houses the best of the town’s ancient carved stone objects. Some of the stele are over 30m in length and are intricately carved. One stele, named the Rome Stele, was stolen by Mussolini and transported to Rome but later returned to Axum. The museum is also worth a visit. Just outside the stele park is a church where the Ark of the Covenant is supposed to be housed. No one has ever seen it and it is carefully guarded. Later that afternoon we walked further up the hill to see the Queen of Sheba’s bath. It actually looks more like a big reservoir. Further up the hill are some tombs which are also worth a visit. We were lucky that we did not have loads of locals bugging us on the way up, as we had heard from others that they had hordes.
That evening a large group of people from the Hash Harriers booked into the hotel. They were a lot of fun and I was surprised how far reaching their network is. They would be a really good group to have contact with when overlanding around the world as they are a well connected bunch. They also like a party, so be prepared. I found the children in this part of Ethiopia increasingly annoying. They have two sentences; hello and give me money. We have heard from quite a few travellers that in Ethiopia it eventually gets to you, and here, in Axum, it certainly was beginning to bite.
The following morning, Friday the 13th, we had a quick breakfast and headed out of town towards Debark, which lay about 170km away. We had been told by the Hash Harriers that the trip takes around 10 hours as there are major works underway on the roads. The first 100km was along tar and well graded roads, and I was beginning to wonder how the journey could possibly take that much time. We then reached a set of high hills and as we climbed the slopes the road became narrower and we hit the first set of road works. We pulled over and patiently waited for a road to be excavated. Time rolled on and the Lizzybus joined us on the hillside overlooking a huge river. The air was thick with the dust created by the bulldozer pushing tonnes of earth and rock over the edge and down the steep valley side. After a 90 minute wait the road was level and we were able to proceed. We drove carefully around the hairpin bends and, although stressful, it was impossible not to appreciate the gorgeous views. A few kilometres further on we came to a grinding halt. Another road was being excavated and when I walked around the corner I realised we were in for another long wait. The diggers had hundreds of tons of rock to move and there was nothing you could do but wait. Again it wasn’t long before some local children came by and started asking for gifts and we did our best to ignore them. Eventually after a couple of hours wait a one lane dirt road was cleared and we thankfully continued our journey.
Some two hundred metres further on we recognised an oncoming Landrover called Sandladders which we had last seen in the Jungle Junction, Nairobi. We stopped and chatted briefly to Andrew and Cristina before moving on before some trucks which we had overtaken earlier caught up with us. A few minutes later there was a loud sound from Proper Job that sounded like a gunshot. I spun around and was shocked to see a large hole in the rear door window and glass everywhere. This was the same window that had been shattered in Ghana. We pulled up around the next corner and looked around for people, thinking someone had thrown a stone through the window. All I could see were a few cows slipping and sliding on the hillside a 100 metres or so above us. The hole was eight inches in diameter and when I opened the back door I found a large rounded rock weighing a couple of kilograms on the back seat. It was obvious this had not been thrown as it was the size of a very large grapefruit. The only conclusion we could come to was that the cows had dislodged the rock above us and we had been incredibly unlucky to have been in that particular spot when it had come hurtling down the slope. On reflection, we realised that in some ways we had been lucky it had not come through the driver’s window. If it had, then it could easily have resulted in a serious accident, maybe even a fatality. We patched up the shattered window with duck tape and carried on our journey to Debark, which was till about 30km away. The road was rough dirt road all the way and I really did not think the taped window would stay in place. Having a smashed window was one thing, but if the shattered glass actually fell out then the security issues were much more serious. The rest of the journey was clouded in an atmosphere of depression as I, in particular, grappled with the reality of how difficult this would be to get fixed. In Ghana, with the help of my well connected Cornish friend Angelo Massimino, it had been relatively simple. Here in northern Ethiopia it would be much more difficult and very frustrating.
We eventually reached Debark and the journey had taken ten hours in total. We reached the Simien Park Hotel to find it had no water. Clearly it had rained heavily the day before so we were somewhat surprised. A local pointed us towards a new hotel which had hot water so we ended up there for the night. Also, importantly the hotel had secure parking. Debark is a scruffy ugly town which can only be described as a mess. The following morning we would be heading to Gondor, a town of over 100,000 people. There were a couple of garages in Gondor and that would be my first effort to getting the window replaced.
We left early to make I in good time to check out the garages in Gondor. The road was much better than the day before and within three hours we arrived. When we arrived there was no network coverage so we headed to the recommended Belagez Pension. Upon arrival a well spoken local approached and I enquired whether he knew a good garage that could replace a window. He assured me there were a couple around so we immediately headed of, very much aware that it was a Saturday and businesses could well close early. The first garage we came to assured me 100% that they had the right window and suggested that they remove the broken window whilst the new one was being brought from a nearby location. I declined and insisted that I wanted to see the new one before the other was removed. Luckily I did, as an hour later they reappeared saying they did not have one. Anyway, we moved onto another garage and they again said they wanted to take out the old window and match it with one in the store. Same result, although they did offer one window that after some cutting and reshaping would fit. I declined their offer as the curvature on the window they offered was different. I then went around to the back of Proper Job to dig out my computer to check on the name of the hotel we were supposed to meet the Lizzybus. I opened my bag and pulled out a computer I didn’t recognize. Slowly, the reality sunk in. The rock that had come through the window had somehow slammed straight into the side of my HP notebook and had completely smashed it. I then realized how fast that rock was travelling and the seriousness of the consequences if it had come through the front window of Proper Job. Te sickening feeling that I felt at that moment I have not had many times in my life. Besides the seriousness of the potential injuries now I had lost all my trip files and connection to MapSource. I had had enough for the day so we went back to Belagez. On arrival we found the Lizzybus parked up. We enquired about rooms and were told our friends had taken the last two. I angrily asked if we could camp and the manager confessed that it was a prank that the Lizzybus had asked him to pull. It would have been funny on another occasion but with all that had recently happened I did not have much of a sense of humour left.
The drive to the Ethiopian border from Marsabit was every bit as bad as we had heard. The road is relentless and consists of kilometre after kilometre of rocks and nasty corrugations. We were pleased that we had cut out a big chunk of this road by coming across the Chalbi desert from Lake Turkana. This road to Ethiopia challenges you to damage your vehicle. We travelled the 200km from Marsabit to Moyale with the Lizzybus and on the way they lost their new solar panel and a couple of legs from their barbeque. The driver has to concentrate tirelessly at all times on this route and there are no easy stretches to relieve the pounding of vehicle and occupants. We rotated driving every two hours in order to keep fresh. By the end of the journey, averaging around 25km per hour, we only had some slight damage to a roll bar bracket and had developed a ‘leak’ in the wheel hubs.
Once we arrived, we were through the border within an hour. One scam on the Ethiopian side to watch for is a group of ‘officials’ that claim visitors need to pay a development fee. The customs officer gave us the heads up that this is not compulsory so we politely refused and drove to the nearby Koket Hotel where we would overnight. When we arrived at the hotel we discovered there were no rooms available but they would gladly let us camp for 100 Birr (£4). The facilities were not great so it is worth asking for access to a room.
Later I inspected the damaged roll bar bracket and bush and saw that the bottom holding plate had been worn through. A simple reversal of this with one of the other plates would fix it, but unfortunately I sheared off one of the bolts whilst doing so. This now meant that I could not travel on rough roads as the whole bracket would snap off. The logical decision was to head northwards to the large regional town called Awassa so I could get it fixed. Unfortunately, this meant I would miss the Omo Valley and Arba Minch on Lake Chalmo. We had an enjoyable evening with Dave and Jane from the Lizzybus and although the goat meat dish was tough, Dave managed to finish two whole dishes.
The following morning we both drove to Yabello, a small town about 200km north. From here I would make some enquiries and, depending on the outcome, would either head to the Omo Valley or keep going north to Awassa. We arrived at Yabello and found the only decent place to stay was the Yabello Motel. Again camping was on offer, but the rooms were £10 each so we decided to take one. A couple of hours later the Lizzybus arrived and did the same. I asked a couple of tour guide drivers about mechanics and they said there was a local welding garage in Yabello that should be able to remove the sheared bolt. The Lizzybus decided to head to Arba Minch the following morning and skip the remote Omo Valley in the southwest corner of Ethiopia. I decided to give the local welders a go but suspected I would be heading northwards to Awassa to get it fixed.
I drove to the welders and they, as expected, confirmed they could extract the bolt by welding another bolt onto it. My concern was they would end up welding the bolt to the chassis and then I would have an even bigger problem. I got under Proper Job with the welder and he managed to successfully weld the old bolt. After he snapped the weld a couple of times I decided a gentler approach was needed. I worked the bolt a quarter turn by quarter turn and eventually managed to get the sheared bolt stub out. I got a new bolt and holding bracket from my spares kit and within an hour we were heading westwards to catch up with the Lizzybus at Arba Minch.
After a four hour journey along roads which varied from perfect tar to well graded sections we arrived at Arba Minch, located on an escarpment in the Rift Valley overlooking Lake Abaya and Lake Chalmo. The landscape was lush as the rains had arrived and we drove through some scenic high hill country. Based on what I had seen so far, I suspected that Ethiopia would turn out to be a pleasant surprise. Things also appeared to be really cheap here. A good gauge is the beer price which is 30 pence a bottle and a good clean room costs no more than £10 per night. We didn’t know where the Lizzybus had decided to camp in Arba Minch so took the first turning towards Swaynes Lodge. A hundred metres later we saw them pulled into a small lodge and reconnected. They had already checked out a few other places and found this place to be the best value. The rooms and facilities were fine and it cost 150 Birr (£6) per room. That evening we pondered on what to do in this region. I really wanted to go to the Lower Omo Valley to see some tribes that, with time, would be spoilt by tourism. We met a couple of tour guides that told us the roads to Turmi were fine at the moment as the rains had been sporadic. When the rains really start in the Omo Valley it is very easy to get bogged down and delayed for days awaiting the rivers to fall to a point where one can cross safely.
The following morning the Lizzybus departed and headed northwards around the western side of Lake Abaya to Awassa. We decided to stay another day in Arba Minch and visit a couple of local sites. The first was the Nechisar National Park which lies between the two lakes. We set off into the park with an armed guide. Not sure why they needed to be armed but no point arguing. The track started off as sandy but when we approached the hills it turned into a serious off road driving exercise. The road became a rock one and the winding slopes 45 degrees. I knew Proper Job could handle these steep inclines in low range first gear and we clambered up and around the hills. We did not see any animals and the further we got into the drive the more it became apparent that this would not be a simple pleasurable drive around the lakes. After an hour and a half I decided to call it quits and told the guard we were going back. It really was not worth putting Proper Job through the grinder again, especially after the abysmal road from Kenya to the Ethiopian border. We were quite relieved to get out of the park and headed back to town to grab a cold drink.
The rest of the afternoon we took it easy and started planning our long journey into the remote Lower Omo Valley. That evening we met another guide that confirmed the route to Turmi, which is the centre of the Hamer tribe’s territory. We wanted to visit the Hamer (known for ‘jumping the bulls’ and body scarification), the Karo (known for their body paintings) and the Mursi (known for their lip disk) tribes. The next day we left Arba Minch and headed back to Konso, which is the turnoff to the Lower Omo Valley. Our progress was very slow due to the large number of cattle and goats on the road. They were been driven to water and to grazing lands and we slowly worked our way through the herds. Arriving at Konso we headed west to Weyto along the road that leads to Jinka. This road is excellent and is mostly tar. We drove through a mountain range and descended into a large wide valley. A couple of hours later we arrived at Weyto where we took the dirt road southwest towards Lake Stephanie. There were no signs of any rains and the dirt road was in good shape. As we reached Lake Stephanie the dusty landscape became marshy as we continued heading towards the Lower Omo Valley. After a further two hours driving at 50kmph we left the wide flat plains and turned towards a range of hills. We crossed a number of dried riverbeds and made our way upwards through the hills. We did not see any other traffic along the way. Still there was no sign of the rains and we eventually dropped down into the Lower Omo Valley.
We arrived at Turmi and pulled into the Buske Lodge. The prices were expensive and the only place for a roof tent was in the car park. We spoke to a local guide and, on his advice, we decided to go to the village to arrange a guide for the following day and check out a couple of other places. We went to the Tourist Hotel where all the guides hangout and made arrangements with a guide called Turk. Our plan was to visit a Hamer village that afternoon and then to drive 70km westwards the following day to a very remote Karo village on the eastern bank of the Omo River. Turk also told us there was a good campsite near to Buske Lodge called Mango Camp. We drove to Mango Camp and found it to be very good.
Later that afternoon we picked up Turk and drove along a non descript pathway through the bush to a Hamer village. Upon arrival a number of villagers came out to see us. They are a very striking, strong proud looking people. They reminded me somewhat of the Himba people of north western Namibia. The Hamer also use an ochre and fat mixture to redden and protect their skin. You can’t but help notice the scarification on the backs of the Hamer people. Apparently the men scarify themselves once they have killed a foe. The women scarify themselves as it is supposed to make them more desirable. The scars are large and look like they have been caused by a cat-o-nine-tails. From a western perspective it appears senseless and brutal. I winced at the pain they must endure to get their scars. We walked around the village and went inside a house to see how they live. Their homes have an odour of fire and animal skin, but do not really offend the senses. The people were friendly and happily posed for photos for a small fee of 2 Birr each.
Later we drove back to Turmi and stopped for a cold drink at the Tourist Hotel. We met a tour operator called Kassa whom we had bumped into in Arba Minch. We chatted about the tribes in the area as well as the routes that would be badly affected by the rains if they came. Kassa had given us very good information previously so when he mentioned that, to visit the Mursi villages, you have to drive 65km from Jinka we realised we could be in for some long drives on potentially dreadful roads. He also said that he did not like going there as the Mursi were aggressive and unscrupulous. This was not the first time we had heard such things of the lip plated Mursi. As we headed back to camp we wondered whether it was worth going up to Jinka and into the Mago National Park to see the Mursi.
The following morning we met Turk at 8am and headed westwards to a remote Karo village. We definitely needed a guide to find this place as most of the trip was along a narrow sandy track that led past the village of Murulle to the Omo River. We were now deep into the Lower Omo Valley and way off the beaten track. A couple of times we needed to back track to find a way around areas affected by recent rains. Eventually we arrived at a village located spectacularly upon a high bank towering over a bend in the Omo River. From this position we saw canoes crossing the river and these provide the only means of getting to the other side. There are no bridges or ferries. Soon a number of villagers appeared and approached us. I immediately noticed that they carried either spears or Kalashnikov guns. The Karo tribe are thought to be one of the most endangered groups in the Omo Valley. They paint themselves in earthy colours that give them a war-like appearance. It was here, on the banks of the Omo River, that I decided would be a fitting place to depart with the soccer ball that Proper Job had carried all around Africa. When I got the ball out, a serious looking gun toting villager walked forward. I asked Turk, our guide, who would be the best person to give it to so as to be a gift to the whole village. I was directed towards a teacher and made my way from the scowling gun toting villager and made some polite talk with the teacher. He was very grateful, but didn’t seem to reckon any of the famous footballers I mentioned. I thought about this, and realised just how isolated these tribes are; there are few people in the world that haven’t heard of Beckham, Rooney and Ronaldo. I wondered if they even know how to play football here. Maybe the ball would end up dropping the 100 metres into the Omo River and floating way down stream to another, maybe more remote tribe. We took some nice photos and said our farewells. I can imagine in a few years time, as roads are built and tarred, that this valley will get bus loads of tourists. At that point, these tribes will be changed forever; for better or for worse, that is a major debating point.
We drove back to Turmi and decided to give the planned trip to Jinka and the Mursi people a miss. Instead we would visit the Monday Hamer market and stay another night. The market was full of Hamer tribe’s people buying and selling goods. We wondered around observing these proud strong people in their traditional attire. As we walked around we realised that the sky had started to take on an ominous look.
The day had been dull, but the clouds were now building darkly and looked like a big downpour could be on its way. There are two large river crossings that we had been told would be a problem if the rain came. If it rained heavily then you could easily wait for a couple of days before they were passable. We thought long and hard about the merits of staying another day but decided it would be wise to leave that afternoon. We could get as far as Konso and the trip would take us about three hours. As we drove out of Turmi we saw that even the light rains from the night before had had an impact on the river crossings. We drove back through the hills and along the scenic plains of Lake Stephanie. I can now see how the Omorate border crossing from Lake Turkana in northern Kenya would become impassable in the rainy season. We did not see any other overlanders in the Omo Valley and guess no one would be taking that crossing until the rains had gone. Our decision to cross the Chalbi desert to Marsabit rather than enter Ethiopia via Omorate appeared to have been the right choice. However, I would love to have done the Omorate route in the dry season.
When we arrived in Konso we headed to the Edget Hotel, which had been recommended in the Lonely Planet. One look and I decided to look elsewhere. We headed back up the hill to a lodge in construction that is owned by Hess Travel. We were told that a room cost US$65 per night. I asked about camping and they said that would cost 100 Birr each. They even threw in access to one of their chalets. This was a real bargain so we quickly accepted the offer and found a level place to camp. As we were setting up a couple of guests peered down at us from their veranda. After a while they enquired where we were from and we struck up a great conversation that lasted throughout the evening. Harley and Mina, from South London, had just returned from the Omo Valley and had, in the past, done a number of camping trips into Namibia and Botswana. We later realised we had met their tour guide in Turmi and he confirmed that heavy rains had indeed come the day we left. We knew we were lucky to have got out when we did.
We had a fun dinner that evening with Harley and Mina and at 10pm crashed out. Later that night John had a serious bout of stomach problems. This, on top of his worsening foot, was all that he needed. The next morning he looked quite ill, but it clearly wasn’t the food as we had all eaten the same. The symptoms became more and more flu-like and almost identical to the symptoms Sam had shown in South Africa before being diagnosis as having contracted malaria.
We left Konso and headed back towards Yabello. Overnight rains had noticeably roughened the graded road and it took us longer than we thought to reach Yabello. When we pulled into the Yabello Motel we found the place almost fully occpied. Luckily we got a room and John crashed out after I insisted he started a course of Malerone to hopefully cure his malaria.
I did some minor checks on Proper Job and started my Ethiopia blog. Later that afternoon I heard from the Lizzybus, who were now in Addis Ababa camped at Wims House, which is a well known over-landers hangout. They had got their Egypt visa in a day and were applying for their Sudan visa on Wednesday. Hopefully we can hook up with them before they leave Addis and head towards the Simien Mountains. That evening it rained heavily and it was a clear sign that the rainy season had now started in earnest. I was pleased we had left the Omo Valley before these heavy rains hit. That evening I watched Man Utd thrash Schalke 04 from Germany, although it took a long time for the winning goals to come. The return match at Old Trafford in one week time should see United go through to the final.
The following morning we left Yabello and headed northwards to Awassa. John was in no fit condition to drive so I faced a couple of days of long stints at the wheel. With so many domestic animals and people on the roads this is not an ideal situation. Again, it seemed only a matter of time before John caught malaria; he does not wear long trousers and long sleeve shirts in the evening, does not use anti mossie spray and doesn’t take anti malaria tablets. He has been bitten hundreds of times during the trip so the final outcome did not surprise. The ‘result’ however has an impact; the other person has to drive unnecessary long distances or the journey is forced to a standstill awaiting recovery.
The drive through the hills to Awassa was pleasant and the condition of the road good. After seven hours driving we reached Awassa and took the turn towards the mountain village of Wendo Genet. This small hillside village would be a good place to stop for a couple of days whilst John recuperated from his malaria. We stayed at the Wendo Genet Resort and took a couple of rooms. That afternoon I found a good guide that would take me on a trek into the forested hills the following morning. That evening I watched the ill tempered semi final between Real Madrid and Barcelona.
The next morning at 6am I met the guide and began a three hour trek into the hills. I could tell that I was not very fit after my travels around Africa and realised that I would have to get right back into my swimming training when I get back to Cornwall. Along the way we saw many new species of birds and the tally for my Africa trip soared that day to over 550 different species. Unfortunately there are a lot of signs of logging in this area and a German Ornithology group I met later in the restaurant confirmed that the de-forestation of these hills was disastrous. Probably the highlight of the new birds I saw was a Narina Trogon that I caught a glimpse of along a river. It was a spectacular sight but unfortunately I was not able to take a photograph. Upon my return to the resort, I lazed about whilst John continued to rest. Again the rains came and we hoped that as we continued our travels northwards we would eventually reach drier climes.
The following morning John showed some signs of improvement as the Malerone course took effect on the malaria. This was good news and I figured in a couple of days he would be back to normal. With his current state of health we could not go to the Bale Mountains. I had wanted to do this to try and see the very rare Ethiopian Wolf. I pondered on the options and decided the best thing was to move northwards to Addis Ababa and start the process for my remaining two visas in Africa; Egypt and Sudan. I had a text message from the Lizzybus saying that they had now got both visas and, surprisingly, did not need a letter of introduction from the British Embassy to get their Sudan visa. This is the first time I had heard of this letter not being required.
The next morning we checked out and I casually enquired how long it would take to get to Addis by road. We were told three hours, which surprised me as I thought we were a lot closer. When I checked my GPS I realised that my earlier estimate was too a different town. We guessed, at best, we would try and submit our Egypt visa that day (which was a Friday). On the way we needed to get a paper receipt for our bank visa cards as part of the paperwork needed to support the application for an Egypt visa. The traffic became progressively worse towards Addis and we arrived at the Egypt Embassy at 12.30 to find visa applications finished at 11am on a Friday. I politely insisted that we wanted to speak directly to the visa section and was told the office staff returned at 1pm. The Royal Wedding was now in full swing and we caught a glimpse of it whilst waiting for the staff to return from lunch. I had a plan to try and convince the staff to let us submit our application form, even though we were late. That week, the Lizzybus had given a staff member a lift to hospital as she was in labour. When the visa staff returned I read them the text from the Lizzybus wanting to know whether it was a boy or a girl. This appeared to do the trick and they let us submit our applications late. We were told to comeback on Monday afternoon to pick them up.
We stopped at a nearby cafe for a coffee and bite to eat and then drove to a garage called General Motors that had been recommended by Paul Marsh at Footloose4x4. I needed a 5000km service done and also the hub seals changed on both wheel ball joints. The garage management knows the owner of Wims House very well. We were told to bring Proper Job in at 8am on Monday and we should be able to collect Tuesday afternoon. Luckily I have the spare parts required for the hub repair, so hope that it will go smoothly.
We then drove to Wims House and caught up with Dave and Jane of the Lizzybus. They had been here for a week and we made some tentative plans for the crossing from Sudan into Egypt on the Wadi Halfi ferry. Both Dave and I had contacts that we could use for ‘facilitators’ and we emailed them to let them know we would be catching the ferry on 1st June. The conflict in Libya has resulted in many Sudanese fleeing and returning to Sudan which means the ferry is extremely busy. Although only 400 or so people are supposed to be on the ferry at any one time, currently the number is nearer 600.
Saturday night was Reggae night at Wims and many people turned up to listen and dance to the entertaining band. After a few fun hours I returned to the camp site to get some sleep. I noticed another vehicle had arrived and scratched my head to figure out where I had seen it before. The plates showed it was from Estonia and I immediately recalled meeting a traveller from that country when we were in Nouakchott, Mauritania. Waking up the next morning I caught sight of the driver and confirmed it indeed was Tarmo. It was great to catch up and find out where he had been since Mauritania. He has followed my Blog and was up to speed with where and what I had been up to since Mauritania. After reaching Benin he had returned to Estonia and, getting itchy feet again, planned his trip down the east coast of Africa via Turkey and Syria. He is a very resourceful individual and has managed to navigate his way through some tricky situations.
On Sunday we visited the National Museum and spent some time browsing through their interesting fossil display on the origins of humans. It seems most important discoveries have taken place in Ethiopia and has this has been described as the ‘cradle of civilisation’. Later that afternoon I gathered the various spare parts and filters required for Proper Job’s visit to the highly recommended General Motors garage (+251-11-1235336). We still have not escaped the rains which arrive on cue most afternoons.
The following morning we drove Proper Job to the garage and were told it should be ready the following afternoon. On arrival back at Wims we heard that Al Qaeda leader Osama Bin Laden had been killed by US Special Forces in Pakistan the previous evening, 2nd May 2011. I remember hearing the news of the twin towers 9/11 tragedy whilst salmon fishing with friends in eastern Canada. Ten years later, news of this seemingly important milestone was heard in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
The Lizzybus headed northwards towards the Simien Mountains and we planned to meet them on the 18th May near to the Sudan border where we would cross in convoy prior to the expiry of our Ethiopia visas. Later that afternoon we went to the Egypt Embassy and picked up our visas. The whole process was very straightforward and the staff extremely helpful. That evening it rained heavily in Addis and we spent some hours in the bar chatting with other over-landers.
The following morning we took a taxi to the Sudan Embassy to begin the process of getting a visa. This was the final visa I would need to get on my Africa trip and I reflected on the numerous countries and challenges I had faced whilst circumnavigating the continent. I also remembered the friends who had helped me on the way and they had made the trek that bit easier. The West African route had definitely been far harder than the East African route.
All the information I had gathered on getting a Sudan visa stated that a letter of introduction was needed from your own embassy. Curiously, Dave and Jane from the Lizzybus had not been asked for one, so when we turned up at the Sudan Embassy we did not know what to expect. We arrived just before 9am and asked for an application form. I was immediately asked if I had my Egyptian visas, to which I replied yes. They did not ask for a letter of introduction so we filled in the form requesting a Tourist Visa. We then attached two photos, a copy of the Egypt visa, our passports and a copy of the passport. We submitted our forms and were told to come back in one hour to make payment. We headed across the road to a cafe. An hour later we came back and were given our application form and passport and told to go to the payment office. We paid our US$100 each and were told to come back the following day at 3pm.
We headed back to Wims place and I awaited a call from the garage so I could go and pick up Proper Job. At 2.30pm I received a call and took a taxi to the garage. The workshop manager called Deme came over and took me through the work that had been done. Proper Job was looking so clean. They had even cleaned the engine and the underneath with benzene and I had not seen those areas this clean since leaving the UK. Deme told me that Proper Job was in good shape and that the lubricating grease from the ball joint was due to a worn seal. They had replaced the seals using the hub kit I had provided them out of my substantial spares kit. Actually, I have not used many of the items in the spares kit that I got from Paul Marsh at Footloose4x4. Deme was impressed with what I had and I knew it is certainly a well thought out kit. I drove back to Wims and set up the tent to air it out. The rest of the afternoon I spent time with my Estonian friend Tarmo, going through routes I had taken around Africa.
The following morning was sunny so I took the opportunity to do some laundry and re-pack Proper Job. I changed some dollars and headed down town for a light lunch and visited an internet cafe. On the way back I casually checked a Dashen Bank ATM and was really surprised that it accepted MasterCard. I had been told by many people and read in books that Ethiopia banks only accepted visa cards. This Dashen Bank ATM is in the foyer of the Ras Hotel, just a 5 minute walk from Wims House.
We decided to leave Addis as soon as we got our Sudan Visa and drive north of the city for an hour or so. I felt it was better to get the ‘city traffic’ drive out of the way so we had a clean two day trip covering 550km to Lake Tana. We said farewell to Wim and his wife, Tarmo and the other over-landers. I especially wished Tarmo all the best in his travels around Africa and the other continents he was determined to visit. We then headed back to the Sudan Embassy and, upon arrival, were immediately called up and given our passports. We did not get a Tourist Visa as requested, only a two week Transit Visa. I am not sure if they would have required a letter of introduction for a Tourist Visa or whether they have scrapped the need for the letter altogether. If needed, we could extend them in Sudan. We were also reminded that we needed to complete an Alien Registration with the Sudan police within three days of arriving in Sudan, at a cost 0f US$50 per person. In total, the Sudan visa is the most expensive so far on my Africa trip.
We headed out of Addis which took us an hour to get through. An hour after leaving Addis we arrived at Sululta, a town with significant things going on. I gathered it is a major agricultural area as it is prosperous and there is a fair amount lot of construction underway. We found a hotel for the night and you could by the room price that the town was doing well. However, it was now getting late and the hotel offered secure parking. That evening we watched Man Utd beat Schalke 04 in the second leg to go to through to the final against Barcelona.
The next day we had a quick breakfast and got back on the road. We intended to get to Debre Marcos which lies about half way to Lake Turkana. The distance to cover was 270km and the drive is through spectacular highland scenery. The temperature got noticeably cooler as we climbed to over 3000 metres above sea level. After climbing to the top we dropped down into a deep and impressive canyon that has been cut by the Blue Nile River. We dropped over 2km into the canyon in second gear and crossed the Blue Nile River. The climb out of the canyon proved no problem for Proper Job and we arrived in Debre Marcos at around 3pm. We headed to the Hotel Shebal and found it to be good value. That afternoon I caught up with my Blog and did some reading on places to stay around Lake Tana.
The drive northwards towards Lake Tana was through a hilly attractive landscape that was dominated by agricultural activity. Again one has to watchful of the animals and people that in parts crowd the road. Animals in particular need great attention and the young children that you sometimes see in charge do not have the best control. On occasions as you approach they hit the animals with sticks that makes them veer out in front of you. Not sure if this is done on purpose or is a pure lack of experience. The valleys and plains are clearly very fertile and crops abound. Unfortunately there are not many trees around, only where there is a river or piece of land that is too awkward to plough. The hillsides are heavily terraced. After a few hours driving we arrived at Bahir Dar, which is a town of 96,000 people located along the shoreline of the huge Lake Tana. We drove to the government run Ghion Hotel which we had heard mixed reports on. The hotel is right on the shore and the gardens shrouded in huge old trees. We checked the rooms and for the price of 150Birr (UK£6) a room was great value. That evening we enjoyed fine Ethiopian fasting food and a couple of cold St George beers.
The following morning we ate breakfast in the gardens that were full of bird life. I was lucky enough to see a pair of Double Toothed Barbets on a branch and managed to take one picture before they disappeared. I had been in touch with people who could assist us with getting tickets for the Wadi Halfi ferry crossing into Egypt from Sudan, and needed to make a PDF copy of passports and Carnet so they could prepare the necessary paperwork in advance. Additionally they would organise the driving license and vehicle number plates needed for Egypt. The help would save a lot of stress and hassle and, for a fee of around US$100 per vehicle, I considered a fair deal. We made the copies at a nearby internet cafe and grabbed some more cash from the Dashen Bank ATM (which again accepted MasterCard).
We headed back to Ghion Hotel and had refreshment in the garden. Whilst drinking a cold juice a gorgeous male African Paradise Flycatcher alighted only a few feet away. Firstly, these shy birds rarely venture out of thick cover and this one had also begun to morph from a chestnut red to a white plumage. I was able to take a couple of pictures before it flew back into the trees, but after so many attempts to take a good picture throughout Africa I eventually had a pretty decent shot. At midday we left Bahir Dar and headed eastwards towards the somewhat mystical Lalibela.
Two hours from Bahir Dar you take a dirt road that leads up through spectacular highlands. The road is in very good condition and leads up and over a series of plateau ridges almost 3km above sea level. Approaching Lalibela you notice the strong Christian influence. Lalibela is now a World Heritage Site and famous for its unique churches. The town is perched on a hillside and we made our way along a small road to the Asheton Hotel which had been recommended to us by the Lizzybus. We parked in the small courtyard and checked the rooms out. We were impressed with the comfort and ambience. Again the price (150Birr per room) was excellent value. Each hotel was a representative from the Guide Association and we were soon approached. We were told a full day was 450Birr but we insisted that friends had recently had the same for 350Birr. They soon agreed to our price, and it was only afterwards that I found out that the Lizzybus had actually only had their guide for half a day. That evening we ate at the Unique Restaurant which lay across the road from the hotel. The food was basic but was fine. It rained hard that evening and the corrugated iron roofing of the hotel rattled with rain drops for most of the night.
The following morning we met with our guide and headed down to the southern set of churches. There was a large sermon underway at the entrance to the churches and hundreds of people sat and listened. We managed to use the same entrance ticket that Dave and Jane from the Lizzybus had. We owe them a few beers for that. The churches are impressive to look at, but it was only when I realised they are carved out of ONE solid piece of rock that I was lost for words. Walking around inside you cannot help but marvel at the workmanship and human effort that created these. At one point Lalibela was the capital of the vast empire of Abyssinia. It was, and still is today, of great importance to the world of Christianity. As we wondered around the six churches in the southern section I imagined it was places such as this that famous novelist, Wilbur Smith, must have got his inspiration from to write his amazing Africa based adventures.
The sense of history makes for a fascinating tour and after a couple of hours we decided to break until after lunch. There is so much to take in that it is not productive to cram it all in to a morning session. We agreed to meet our guide again at 14.30 to visit the northern churches and headed to the Seven Olives Hotel for brunch. After an excellent brunch we headed back to our hotel for a siesta. It trained heavily for a couple of hours but by 14.00 had stopped. I took a brisk walk down to another hotel to meet with a Swiss couple that had a Sudan SIM card for me. I didn’t realise how far away their hotel was and after two kilometres walking quickly in rising humidity I arrived. They also had some Sudanese money which I exchanged from them. With time running out I headed back to the meeting place which was all up hill. Thankfully I still have a semblance of fitness from my swimming so made it to the top where I gulped down a litre of water.
The northern churches are also very impressive and, whilst not as well finished as the southern set, were probably even more mysterious than the southern churches. One church we came to has a deep pool and a long dark tunnel that led to a room that the priest Lalibela stayed. There is so much history and important facts that are tied to this place that one cannot capture it in a simple blog. We had a great time touring these remarkable structures and began to realise how special a place this is.
Today was the deciding game in the Premiership where Man Utd play Chelsea at home for the title decider. We found a TV hall which had satellite TV and turned up at 5.45pm to get a seat. The place was already full but the owner managed to find us a couple of seats. I was on the front bench with a load of kids who were all avid Utd supporters. It amazes me just how deep football clubs penetrate even the remotest of places. The game kicked off and the place erupted when Hernandez scored for Utd within a minute of kick off. That was a dream start and Chelsea never recovered. The game ended 2-1 to Und but really should have been 4-1. I hope I will be in a place that I can watch the Barcelona v Man Utd final of the Champions League later this month.
The following morning we had another great breakfast at Seven Olives and then packed up and drove to the edge of town. We stopped and chatted briefly with Dutch overlanders Roland and Paul, who asked if they could follow us along a scenic route that leads directly northwards from Lalibela to Sekouta, where a right turn leads back to the main road at Korem. My Estonian friend Tarmo had told me about this route and so I was confident that it would turn out to be worthwhile. Indeed it turned out to be fantastic and the quality dirt road led us over beautiful high hills and through stunning gorges. This route is rarely visited by tourist who follow the recommendations in the Lonely Planet. Hence, the people you encounter along the way are much less influenced by the trappings and you genuinely feel that you have entered into true unscathed rural Ethiopian highlands. Three hours later we arrived at Korem and had thoroughly enjoyed the journey.
We drove along the tarred road to the large town of Mekele with its population of almost 100,000. We could have stopped for the night at a couple of small towns along the way. We didn’t and the drive lasted about two hours too long. By the time we reached Mekele we were very tired and, in hindsight, we should have stopped earlier. We drove to the Hill Top Hotel which had been recommended to us by a couple of travellers. When we got there we were told that we could have a room but had to check out at 7am the following morning as the whole hotel had been booked by the Ministry of Defence. That was not going to work for us so we went to two further hotels only to find they were fully booked. We had passed a nice looking hotel called Milano so decided to check that one out. It had been a long day and we were pleased to find that Milano had rooms available for one night and at a bargain price of 180Birr. The hotel also had secure parking around the back and we got our gear out of Proper Job and headed to the room. On the way through the foyer I noticed the Dutch guys Roland and Paul whom had followed us from Lalibela along the off the beaten track to Korem. They had also tried a number of hotels in Mekele and found all fully booked or ridiculously overpriced. One hotel had even asked them 150Birr to park their car. We discovered the reason all hotels were booked was because the Ministry of Defence had a five day sports event on. Anyway, we would now only stay one night instead of two.
The following morning we headed into town to see if we could find a fast internet cafe. Unfortunately we could not and after a delicious mango avocado juice we checked out of the hotel and drove to a fuel station to fill up with diesel. There are not so many fuel stations here in northern Ethiopia so it is better to fill up your tank whenever you can, just in case. Our goal today was not to have a long drive and we decided that Adigrat, which lay around 70km away, would suit us fine. We turned off the tar road at Wukro to take a route through a valley where many rock hewn churches exist. After ten kilometres I decided to turn back as the road was much worse than I had been told. We got back to the main road and headed northwards again. The scenery along the way was again very pleasing and we made good progress. Some 20km before our destination we noticed a heavy rainstorm in the hills that lay before Adigrat. The road here was under construction and the heavy rain had made the road very slippery. We had to drive in first gear for a few kilometres and saw many vehicles lose their traction and skid wildly across the road. On one particular downhill stretch we were the only ones that attempted it, but Proper Job did not let us down. We arrived in Adigrat and made our way towards the Selwit Hotel that was recommended in the Lonely Planet. When we got there via a series of cobbled roads we found it was shut. I decided to head back to the main road to cruise for an alternative. There appeared to be a fair bit of development here and after a few hundred metres came across the Eve Hotel which looked quite posh. I thought the price would be around 800Birr but was surprised when he said 198Birr. I snapped a room up and parked Proper Job in a narrow internal parking bay. We relaxed for the rest of the afternoon and I caught up with my blog. We decided to stay for one night and head towards Axum, which lies on the northern section of the scenic loop we were taking back to Lake Tana, the following day.
Arriving in Axum we noticed the Lizzybus parked outside the Africa Hotel. We decided to check into the same hotel and find out what was worth visiting in the area. The rooms were basic but adequate for a couple of nights. The following morning we headed up to the northern stele park, which houses the best of the town’s ancient carved stone objects. Some of the stele are over 30m in length and are intricately carved. One stele, named the Rome Stele, was stolen by Mussolini and transported to Rome but later returned to Axum. The museum is also worth a visit. Just outside the stele park is a church where the Ark of the Covenant is supposed to be housed. No one has ever seen it and it is carefully guarded. Later that afternoon we walked further up the hill to see the Queen of Sheba’s bath. It actually looks more like a big reservoir. Further up the hill are some tombs which are also worth a visit. We were lucky that we did not have loads of locals bugging us on the way up, as we had heard from others that they had hordes.
That evening a large group of people from the Hash Harriers booked into the hotel. They were a lot of fun and I was surprised how far reaching their network is. They would be a really good group to have contact with when overlanding around the world as they are a well connected bunch. They also like a party, so be prepared. I found the children in this part of Ethiopia increasingly annoying. They have two sentences; hello and give me money. We have heard from quite a few travellers that in Ethiopia it eventually gets to you, and here, in Axum, it certainly was beginning to bite.
The following morning, Friday the 13th, we had a quick breakfast and headed out of town towards Debark, which lay about 170km away. We had been told by the Hash Harriers that the trip takes around 10 hours as there are major works underway on the roads. The first 100km was along tar and well graded roads, and I was beginning to wonder how the journey could possibly take that much time. We then reached a set of high hills and as we climbed the slopes the road became narrower and we hit the first set of road works. We pulled over and patiently waited for a road to be excavated. Time rolled on and the Lizzybus joined us on the hillside overlooking a huge river. The air was thick with the dust created by the bulldozer pushing tonnes of earth and rock over the edge and down the steep valley side. After a 90 minute wait the road was level and we were able to proceed. We drove carefully around the hairpin bends and, although stressful, it was impossible not to appreciate the gorgeous views. A few kilometres further on we came to a grinding halt. Another road was being excavated and when I walked around the corner I realised we were in for another long wait. The diggers had hundreds of tons of rock to move and there was nothing you could do but wait. Again it wasn’t long before some local children came by and started asking for gifts and we did our best to ignore them. Eventually after a couple of hours wait a one lane dirt road was cleared and we thankfully continued our journey.
Some two hundred metres further on we recognised an oncoming Landrover called Sandladders which we had last seen in the Jungle Junction, Nairobi. We stopped and chatted briefly to Andrew and Cristina before moving on before some trucks which we had overtaken earlier caught up with us. A few minutes later there was a loud sound from Proper Job that sounded like a gunshot. I spun around and was shocked to see a large hole in the rear door window and glass everywhere. This was the same window that had been shattered in Ghana. We pulled up around the next corner and looked around for people, thinking someone had thrown a stone through the window. All I could see were a few cows slipping and sliding on the hillside a 100 metres or so above us. The hole was eight inches in diameter and when I opened the back door I found a large rounded rock weighing a couple of kilograms on the back seat. It was obvious this had not been thrown as it was the size of a very large grapefruit. The only conclusion we could come to was that the cows had dislodged the rock above us and we had been incredibly unlucky to have been in that particular spot when it had come hurtling down the slope. On reflection, we realised that in some ways we had been lucky it had not come through the driver’s window. If it had, then it could easily have resulted in a serious accident, maybe even a fatality. We patched up the shattered window with duck tape and carried on our journey to Debark, which was till about 30km away. The road was rough dirt road all the way and I really did not think the taped window would stay in place. Having a smashed window was one thing, but if the shattered glass actually fell out then the security issues were much more serious. The rest of the journey was clouded in an atmosphere of depression as I, in particular, grappled with the reality of how difficult this would be to get fixed. In Ghana, with the help of my well connected Cornish friend Angelo Massimino, it had been relatively simple. Here in northern Ethiopia it would be much more difficult and very frustrating.
We eventually reached Debark and the journey had taken ten hours in total. We reached the Simien Park Hotel to find it had no water. Clearly it had rained heavily the day before so we were somewhat surprised. A local pointed us towards a new hotel which had hot water so we ended up there for the night. Also, importantly the hotel had secure parking. Debark is a scruffy ugly town which can only be described as a mess. The following morning we would be heading to Gondor, a town of over 100,000 people. There were a couple of garages in Gondor and that would be my first effort to getting the window replaced.
We left early to make I in good time to check out the garages in Gondor. The road was much better than the day before and within three hours we arrived. When we arrived there was no network coverage so we headed to the recommended Belagez Pension. Upon arrival a well spoken local approached and I enquired whether he knew a good garage that could replace a window. He assured me there were a couple around so we immediately headed of, very much aware that it was a Saturday and businesses could well close early. The first garage we came to assured me 100% that they had the right window and suggested that they remove the broken window whilst the new one was being brought from a nearby location. I declined and insisted that I wanted to see the new one before the other was removed. Luckily I did, as an hour later they reappeared saying they did not have one. Anyway, we moved onto another garage and they again said they wanted to take out the old window and match it with one in the store. Same result, although they did offer one window that after some cutting and reshaping would fit. I declined their offer as the curvature on the window they offered was different. I then went around to the back of Proper Job to dig out my computer to check on the name of the hotel we were supposed to meet the Lizzybus. I opened my bag and pulled out a computer I didn’t recognize. Slowly, the reality sunk in. The rock that had come through the window had somehow slammed straight into the side of my HP notebook and had completely smashed it. I then realized how fast that rock was travelling and the seriousness of the consequences if it had come through the front window of Proper Job. Te sickening feeling that I felt at that moment I have not had many times in my life. Besides the seriousness of the potential injuries now I had lost all my trip files and connection to MapSource. I had had enough for the day so we went back to Belagez. On arrival we found the Lizzybus parked up. We enquired about rooms and were told our friends had taken the last two. I angrily asked if we could camp and the manager confessed that it was a prank that the Lizzybus had asked him to pull. It would have been funny on another occasion but with all that had recently happened I did not have much of a sense of humour left.
That afternoon, after a couple of hours contemplating my options, I headed up to a local computer shop to check whether by any chance my computer could be read from another computer. Unfortunately he did not have the right cable to try it out so I asked whether we could connect an external screen. When we did, and to my amazement, after a series of file verification my bent and twisted HP notebook fired up and I was able to copy the files I needed onto a memory stick. This Blog for instance would have been lost if I had not been able to do so. It was now clear at least now, once back in the UK, I would be able to recover all my files from the hard drive. I believe the shut-down shock mechanism on the HP notebook had saved the day. I still can’t believe when looking at the state of my HP notebook, that there is any life whatsoever in it.
The following morning we went to the nearby royal palace complex which dates 400 years old. It looks like a medieval castle and is an impressive sight. There are six palaces inside the 17,000 square meters compound. Later that day as word spread around town that I needed a new window, I was cornered by a couple of locals who said that a garage had the window I needed. I left the palace to meet the garage owner and he said he was sure he could get the window delivered to Gondor the following evening from either Bahir Dar or Addis Ababa. We agreed a price, which was only to be paid upon delivery of the right window. He took the vehicle details and left. I am not convinced that he will deliver but if he does I will happily pay him for his services. A power cut hit Gondor so the rest of the day we lazed around in cafes and rested.
As expected the window did not arrive on time but I was told that it would be here the following day as it was on a different bus coming from Addis. The manager, Philemon, at Belegez Pension was very helpful throughout the whole exercise and suggested that we start making alternative plans. We made a call to the major spare parts shop in Bahir Dar and they said they definitely had the right window but couldn’t confirm because their system was down. Sounded like a familiar theme here. The rest of the day we hung around the various cafes in town, which I must say was quite pleasant. Later that afternoon I pondered on how I could load up my EuroCity maps onto my Garmin. It was risky using my HP Mini as if half way through the exercise it failed then I would also loose my Africa maps as well. I went to the local computer shop and reopened my HP Mini. At first MapSource would not recognise my Garmin but after trying the Unit ID option it picked it up. Next I highlighted the route back to Cornwall that I would take through Europe and began the transfer. After a 20 minutes process all the maps were successfully transferred. Again I was well impressed with how my smashed HP Mini had managed to perform this exercise. I drove down to the NOC fuel station and had the underneath of Proper Job power washed to remove the thick mud that had accumulated on the road from Adigrat to Axum. I needed to do this before I could grease up the prop shafts. As expected, the window for Proper Job did not arrive that evening so I prepared to drive to Bahir Dar the following day to try and find a replacement. That evening we ate dinner with the Lizzybus crew and chatted about plans for Sudan.
The following morning we went down town and grabbed a quick breakfast. Around 9am I had a call from Filimon saying the mechanic had called and he now had the window in hand and would be at Belegez in 40 minutes. I had heard this before so was a bit sceptical. We went back to Belegez and waited. An hour later, surprisingly, the mechanic turned up with a window. To my even greater surprise it appeared to be the correct one. I gave the go ahead for the change and 90 minutes later the new window was fitted and worked fine. I paid the agreed fee plus a little extra for the mechanic to pay off a couple of others that had been useful. Filimon took me to a local shop that put shading tint on windows and that was job complete. Returning to Belegez a couple of Ethiopians suddenly appeared and asked to be paid something for their help. Again this is unfortunately a typical pattern in this “give me give me give me’ country and I was having none of it. I told them clearly I had given the money to the mechanic and it was up to him who he paid depending on whether he thought certain people had been of help. This seemed to do the trick and they were ushered out of Belegez. I then took the opportunity to grease the prop shafts and hubs in preparation for Sudan. This done, all the jobs were finished so I could relax. We spent the afternoon back in the cafes and I took some more money out of the ATM to change into Sudanese pounds on the border.
Ethiopia has been exceptionally good value and the south, in particular, impressed me. The scenery is fabulous but the roads are crowded and fraught with danger. The people, especially the youth, get more tiring the further north you get and the kids are unfortunately relentless in their pursuit of money. I sometimes wonder if Bob Geldof’s Live Aid has caused these unfortunate traits as I have not experienced them anywhere else on my journey through Arica.
The following morning we set off for the border which took about three hours along perfect tar roads
The following morning we went to the nearby royal palace complex which dates 400 years old. It looks like a medieval castle and is an impressive sight. There are six palaces inside the 17,000 square meters compound. Later that day as word spread around town that I needed a new window, I was cornered by a couple of locals who said that a garage had the window I needed. I left the palace to meet the garage owner and he said he was sure he could get the window delivered to Gondor the following evening from either Bahir Dar or Addis Ababa. We agreed a price, which was only to be paid upon delivery of the right window. He took the vehicle details and left. I am not convinced that he will deliver but if he does I will happily pay him for his services. A power cut hit Gondor so the rest of the day we lazed around in cafes and rested.
As expected the window did not arrive on time but I was told that it would be here the following day as it was on a different bus coming from Addis. The manager, Philemon, at Belegez Pension was very helpful throughout the whole exercise and suggested that we start making alternative plans. We made a call to the major spare parts shop in Bahir Dar and they said they definitely had the right window but couldn’t confirm because their system was down. Sounded like a familiar theme here. The rest of the day we hung around the various cafes in town, which I must say was quite pleasant. Later that afternoon I pondered on how I could load up my EuroCity maps onto my Garmin. It was risky using my HP Mini as if half way through the exercise it failed then I would also loose my Africa maps as well. I went to the local computer shop and reopened my HP Mini. At first MapSource would not recognise my Garmin but after trying the Unit ID option it picked it up. Next I highlighted the route back to Cornwall that I would take through Europe and began the transfer. After a 20 minutes process all the maps were successfully transferred. Again I was well impressed with how my smashed HP Mini had managed to perform this exercise. I drove down to the NOC fuel station and had the underneath of Proper Job power washed to remove the thick mud that had accumulated on the road from Adigrat to Axum. I needed to do this before I could grease up the prop shafts. As expected, the window for Proper Job did not arrive that evening so I prepared to drive to Bahir Dar the following day to try and find a replacement. That evening we ate dinner with the Lizzybus crew and chatted about plans for Sudan.
The following morning we went down town and grabbed a quick breakfast. Around 9am I had a call from Filimon saying the mechanic had called and he now had the window in hand and would be at Belegez in 40 minutes. I had heard this before so was a bit sceptical. We went back to Belegez and waited. An hour later, surprisingly, the mechanic turned up with a window. To my even greater surprise it appeared to be the correct one. I gave the go ahead for the change and 90 minutes later the new window was fitted and worked fine. I paid the agreed fee plus a little extra for the mechanic to pay off a couple of others that had been useful. Filimon took me to a local shop that put shading tint on windows and that was job complete. Returning to Belegez a couple of Ethiopians suddenly appeared and asked to be paid something for their help. Again this is unfortunately a typical pattern in this “give me give me give me’ country and I was having none of it. I told them clearly I had given the money to the mechanic and it was up to him who he paid depending on whether he thought certain people had been of help. This seemed to do the trick and they were ushered out of Belegez. I then took the opportunity to grease the prop shafts and hubs in preparation for Sudan. This done, all the jobs were finished so I could relax. We spent the afternoon back in the cafes and I took some more money out of the ATM to change into Sudanese pounds on the border.
Ethiopia has been exceptionally good value and the south, in particular, impressed me. The scenery is fabulous but the roads are crowded and fraught with danger. The people, especially the youth, get more tiring the further north you get and the kids are unfortunately relentless in their pursuit of money. I sometimes wonder if Bob Geldof’s Live Aid has caused these unfortunate traits as I have not experienced them anywhere else on my journey through Arica.
The following morning we set off for the border which took about three hours along perfect tar roads
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